James Bond liked his shaken not stirred but how do Italians enjoy the classic aperitif that originated from their country? Craig Butcher sought out celebrated mixologist Salvatore Calabrese, Italian chef Gennaro Contaldo, and Martini maker Beppe Musso at the Martini Stay Beautiful Lounge to find out.
Italian culture celebrates L'Ora del Aperitivo, or the Aperitif Hour as a sacrosanct time of the day, nicely sandwiched between the working day and a well-earned evening meal. It’s a complex aperitif which works especially well with food and is best enjoyed while relaxing with friends.
What Is Martini?
Martini was first produced nearly 150 years ago in 1863 as a Martini Rosso by herbologist Luigi Rossi and entrepreneur Allessandro Martini in Turin, the capital of the Piedmont region in northern Italy. It is a dry vermouth predominantly made up of a red Piedmontese wine but with the unique addition of over 40 botanicals and herbs from around the world. The wine provides the body and structure while the herbs provide a complex array of flavours. Martini Bianco was introduced in 1910 using white wine as a base, while Martini Rosato uses both red and white wine grapes.
Martini cocktail
How is Martini made?
The exact recipe is a closely-guarded secret but producer Beppe Musso confides that in addition to the white wine base (for the bianco; red and white wine for the rosato; just red for the rosso), it includes dittany, an oregano-like herb; Italian violets, for their sumptuous smell; Iris root; distilled clove essence; and raspberries which are infused in water and then distilled in a two-step process for the lively fresh fruit flavours. Also included is cascarilla, a tree bark from the Bahamas which is dried on the beaches to allow the saltwater spray to infuse the drying bark – just one example of the complex processes behind each of the 40 ingredients used. The key to Martini’s complexity is the constant evolution of the original recipe, both of the ingredients used and the methods used to extract their inherent flavours.
How to drink Martini
Bartender Salvatore Calabrese is probably the most famous mixologist alive today – he’s been behind the bar since he was 11-years-old. Salvatore says: “Martini changed cocktail-making forever – it’s now used in 40% of the world’s 10 best cocktails." To construct a great Martini-based drink, he says: “Like a great chef, dream of what you want to do first. Create the picture first, the flavours (whether sweet or spicy), and only then try to put it together using different flavours. A great cocktail must satisfy the eyes, the nose, and the tastebuds, and it should take you on a journey." The rosato works well with pomegranate juice, some fresh orange juice and a little honey, while the bianco is enlived by lemon juice and a dash of honey.
Gennaro Contaldo
How to pair with food
Jamie Oliver’s mentor Gennaro Contaldo approaches food the same way Salvatore approaches a cocktail. “As a chef, you must have an idea of the dish – create in your mind what you want, then the options of what can go in. Do it slowly, ingredients in front of you, slowly improving and working through it in your mind. At the end, you have the perfect dish.” Use the Martini Bianco as an appetizer – pair with Italian-themed canapés since many of the herbs you’ll be using are already in a Martini. So parma ham or bresaola (cured beef), and Parmesan cheese (like Martini, from the Piedmont region) on light bruschetta is a great combination. These cold cuts of meat will gently coat your palate while the Martini will cut through the rich flavours. Additionally, use basil or oregano offset with the slight sweetness of radicchio which will work well. Green and black olive pestos on crostini give a balance of bitter and sweet. Try to match the colours of the cocktail with the colour of the food too, not just for the appearance but the flavours are usually complementary. But keep it light and in small portions – Gennaro says: “Aperitivo is the time you need to find the space to think in advance of the food.” So avoid filling that space with too many nibbles.
Martini can be paired with food
How to use in food
The Martini Rosato is Martini but made with a white and red wine base and with a great balance of sweetness and spice. It works well with the canapés mentioned above but best with more robust flavours like goat’s cheese croquettes and black olives. Best used in lieu of a Marsala, add to a risotto towards the end and allow the alcohol to evaporate off. Combine the Martini Bianco with fish dishes in lieu of a white wine reduction, or enjoy alongside sushi. For great delicious. canapés to try with Martini, click here