While Christmas lunch usually decides itself, matching wines to the fruits of your labours on the big day can be a trickier affair. Craig Butcher got some corking advice from the experts at the brilliantly-named wine merchants Planet of the Grapes.
Matt Harris set up Planet of the Grapes quite simply because he and business partner Marc Wise thought they could do a better job with wine than the existing crop of merchants: “We’re not a hard-sell environment – we want people to enjoy themselves,” says Matt. “The key to what we do is fine wines which are hard to find, but crucially with some bottle age so you can drink them at their best.”
Try Matt’s recommended pairings over the festive period – all of Matt's suggestions are available on the Planet of the Grapes website, though there’s a rapid turnover as new finds hit the shelves. If you spend a little more than usual at Christmas, you’re not alone – our wine-buying tends towards the European classics at this time of year, which have more structure and suit heavier Christmas food than cheaper offerings from the New World.
Parties
Go with prosecco – Champagne can be fiercely acidic sometimes. Try a touch off-dry effort like Garbel Adami, (£12.50) – pocket the £10 difference and put it towards a red for the main course.
Champagne Breakfast
If it has to be Champagne (it’s all too easy to be ripped off by Champagne), the best value is from the makers of Cristal – a Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2003 (i.e. 100% Chardonnay) at £50. Otherwise, stick to Prosecco.
Starters
With fish starters liked seared scallops or smoked salmon, a dry, crisp palate-cleansing Genillotte Chablis (Chardonnay, £14) works well, a Fernand Girard Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc, £16) or a slightly fruitier Lagar de Costa (Albarino, £15) from Spain with acidity to cut through any oily fish.
Turkey
If veering towards New World, go for a big Pinot Noir like Wild Earth (£21.50) from Central Otago in New Zealand, or Felton Road (£25) which has chunky, sweet fruits along with good acidity and some tannins. Too light a Pinot and the trimmings will overpower the wine.
Old World will pair well – try a really good red Burgundy (also a Pinot Noir). Try a Nuits St Georges Premier Cru 2001 (£37.50). It has a really good structure, some tannins, and decent ageing to cut through the turkey. Not cheap, but it’s worth it. Or try Givry (not to be confused with Gevrey-Chambertin) – a Premier Cru Burgundy 2005 at £25.
Goose
If you’re roasting a goose, you’ll need a Northern Rhone Syrah or a New World offering like Craggy Range, Block 14 Syrah (£22) from New Zealand, which works equally well with turkey.
Christmas Pud
Try a tawny port – either a Ramos Pinto, or Graham’s 20-year-old (£20 for 500ml). It’s a lighter, sweeter version of port but aged much longer than normal. It’s what they drink more of in Portugal. It has enough power behind it to handle the flavours, and mimics the currants of the pudding. Alternatively, a liqueur Muscat from Australia – they’re like tawny ports but, if anything, are more raisin-like and sweet.
After the event
It has to be brandy. Try a pale and dry XO, Delamain (Cognac rather than Armagnac). It’s a minimum of 25-years-old, incredibly smooth but with the benefit of weighty alcohol. It's priced at £85, much less for a half-bottle. Alternatively, an Italian Poire William from Capovilla at £55 – it’s like having a fresh pear in your mouth.
Planet of the Grapes are offering a mixed case of these six recommendations. Click here to buy
More merchants to try
The web is the perfect place to browse for wines at your leisure, offering an incredible range and a diversity of smaller wineries which you won’t find on the high-street. We highy recommend Planet of the Grapes plus these four:
Old-World Classics
From Vineyards Direct are experts in Old World wines. The founders are wine writers and have access to some of the greatest wineries Europe can offer, from Bordeaux and Burgundy to Italian Montepulciano and Spain, but with reasonable prices, no sniffiness and an easy-to-use website.
Wine meets Social Media
Naked Wines are more interested in wines than labels. They source from tiny producers, you can message other users, see what others are buying, join a wine auction and get tailored recommendations according to your tastes. Offers next-day deliveries. Website.
Old-school Wine Merchants
Tanner’s are bricks and mortar wine merchants based in Shrewsbury. They’ve been around since 1857 and are traditionalists at heart and like to talk to their customers – call them up, get recommendations, then order online. There’s no minimum number of bottles, just a £25+ spend. Website.
Approachable Biggie
Virgin Wines has all the benefits of a big commercial site but with character. Its Wine Bank scheme is innovative, while their breadth and depth of wines impresses. Approachable and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Website.
Craig Butcher is a freelance food and drink writer. Click here to visit his website.