Make the most of... mussels

The good news is that during autumn and winter this is a seafood in such plentiful supply that even the most ethical eater should have no qualms gorging on them (as long as they're not dredged from the sea bed; oh, and try and eat ones sourced from the reasonably clean waters of Scotland or Ireland).

Mussels have been food for centuries, but, according to lore, a 13th century Irish fisherman happened across the clever idea of cultivating them when he noticed how they clung to the supporting poles of his fishing nets.

They're a great source of protein, vitamin B12, zinc, iron and selenium, which is good for the metabolism and the immune system. Don't be put off by woeful tales of food-poisoning from that one 'bad' mussel; as long as you buy ones that have clean, un-cracked shells and smell of brine, and discard the ones that don't close when you tap them, you'll be fine.

To clean these health-boosting bivalves, wash them thoroughly, then submerge them in cold tap water – mussels only like sea water, so this process should make them close up. Once cooked (steaming them is best), ditch any with closed shells.