Once maligned cuts, such as pork belly, are now ultra-fashionable and demand has pushed up the price – but you can still find little-known cuts that are both delicious and great value for money. delicious. magazine's food editor Angela Boggiano has a chat with her butcher to discover some of the best.
Cheap cuts are very much on the menu at the moment. Walk into any gastropub worth its salt, and you’ll be spoilt for choice – lamb shanks, pork belly and oxtail are sure to feature on the menu. At home, it’s the same story, according to my butcher, Garry Moen at M Moen & Sons, who tells me that in the last year the demand for these cuts has gone through the roof, driven by a trend for slow-cooked meals. The problem, he says, is that these once unfashionable cuts are now in short supply and as a result, they’re not so cheap any more.
So what’s the solution? Well, ask your butcher about alternative cheap cuts such as ham hock, brisket and scrag end – these are delicious when you know what to do with them.
Garry’s advice, perhaps not surprisingly for a butcher, was to buy more meat. But he does have a point; pound for pound, you get better value from a large joint of meat, such as shoulder of pork, from which you can make several tasty meals, from a roast to a stew, plus cold cuts.
M. Moen & Sons, 24 The Pavement, Clapham Common, London SW4 0JA.