Although popular on the Continent, rabbit is often overlooked as a dinner option in other countries. Don't miss out – rabbit recipes are inexpensive and the meat is lean yet flavoursome.
Some people get misty-eyed when rabbits are mentioned – to many, the word conjours up floppy-eared, twitchy-nosed bundles of fur from their childhood. In the last few decades, the English have turned their noses up to what was once a staple in the British diet; it seems Beatrix Potter's cheeky Peter Rabbit and pet shops have had a latent effect on the public's desire to eat what are now associated as sentient beings. Others however, notably farmers, positively encourage the consumption of these cutesy cropmunchers that are the scourge of their hard-toiled fields.
But as more and more of us reach for locally-sourced produce, rabbit is slowly coming back in vogue, especially wild rabbit, which has a gamey savoriness. The subtle taste lends itself to a variety of different cooking methods, it's an extremely good source of protein and, like other red meats, an excellent source of iron.
Rabbit is available all year round in the UK and there's an abundance of it, although it's kinder to avoid wild rabbit between April-August during breeding and rearing season.
Butchers are more likely to sell rabbit than supermarkets; try to avoid anything in excess of a kilo, as it can prove tough. The type of meat varies: 'fryer' is the leanest and most tender; 'roaster', is a more mature rabbit – at its best when given a longer cooking time – lastly, there are the 'giblets', which are the organs of the animal. Take care, as the low fat content can make it dry if it's not marinated beforehand, or basted during cooking.
Rabbit makes a great alternative to a Sunday roast and, as the Italians have proved, it's particularly delicious with pasta. September marks the start of when it's ethically acceptable to eat rabbit again; a suitable month as the meat goes well with autumnal flavours in warming, comforting dishes.