Spring flavours from Allegra McEvedy

Chef Allegra McEvedy is renowned for her knack of combining seasonal flavours. Here, she picks her favourite seasonal recipes for June.

Spring flavours from Allegra McEvedy

Asparagus
These fine spears are among the first of the new array of produce to come over the summer and are greeted by British cooks with open arms. Quick, easy to cook and delicious, British asparagus is good for you – and it’s worth waiting for, so ignore those South American imports for the rest of the year. Asparagus recipes.

Black bream
Don’t confuse black bream, a magnificent sea fish, with freshwater bream, which isn’t worth eating. Black bream is akin to sea bass and more interesting in my opinion, but maybe that’s because I’m totally bass-ed out after years of non-stop bass on British menus. Black bream stocks are plentiful, and these beautifully shaded fish come portion-sized. Eat now for the best flavour – enjoy with extra relish by catching them yourself, if you’re that way angled! Black bream recipes.

Courgette flowers
You’ll find these in your veg patch or greengrocer, come June. Like many cooks, I get a huge aesthetic kick out of cooking with flowers. What these lack in flavour, they more than make up for in looks, and they are a natural vehicle for filling and frying. Courgette flowers.

Morels
These are one of the coolest-looking mushrooms in the family, with a much gentler flavour than many other wild ’shrooms. Buy a load in their short spring season and use with gay abandon with everything from fish to eggs to poultry, or have them on toast. Any leftovers can be dried to chuck into soups and stews later in the year, for instant depth of flavour. Morel recipes.

Samphire
When it’s in season, we should all be using more samphire. It does a job no other veg can replicate, as it’s succulent, tender, salty and fresh. As long as you buy it young there’s no need to prep it at all (old samphire needs to have its woody ends trimmed). Also, if you’re up for a seaside forage, it is readily available for free along much of the British coastline in late spring and early summer. Samphire recipes.

Strawberries
When you see the year’s first British, non-forced strawberry, stop what you’re doing and eat it, then have another. This will remind you why this heart-shaped berry (so often presented to us without flavour, having covered more miles than a gap-year student) holds such a place of honour among British soft fruits. Strawberries are one of my earliest taste memories, too – me being hot, sticky and naughty, nicking the fruit in grandpa’s garden. Strawberry recipes.

Deep-fried courgette flowers

Deep-fried courgette flowers

For cooks who take seasonality seriously, it should be illegal not to do a courgette flowers recipe when they appear in June.

Asparagus and morels on toast

Asparagus and morels on toast

Morels are in season at the same time as asparagus – an anomaly, as most mushrooms appear around autumn. This seasonal recipe is delicious, rich and a bit French in feel.

Griddled black bream with warm potato salad

Griddled black bream with warm potato salad

There is no taste or smell that sums up summer cooking quite like grilled fish: eating it by the seaside, whacking sardines on a barbecue, and this black bream recipe.

Butterflied leg of lamb with samphire and lentils

Butterflied leg of lamb with samphire and lentils

This lamb recipe is similar to salt marsh lamb, where the briny sea flavour – from the samphire – sits comfortably with the meat. Late new season lamb (May/June) is one of the greatest joys of early summer.

Strawberry, Vin Santo and mascarpone trifle

Strawberry, Vin Santo and mascarpone trifle

This Italian trifle recipe is a bit more glam than the one granny used to make! The saltiness of the pistachios balances the sweetness nicely.

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