Born to be wild

Honestly, I know a family that almost went to war with each other over wild mushrooms. The culprit was the much prized, edible Boletus mushroom, more appetisingly known as cep by the French, or porcini by the Italians. In our recent fervour for all things Italian, the porcini mushroom has become deeply trendy. It is very expensive to buy, but obviously free to those who know where to look. And this particular family – actually a pair of brothers – fell out over the fact that one knew where to forage, while the other didn’t. This was made worse as the brother who knew refused to let the other in on his secret. Wild mushroom-hunting enthusiasts would doubtlessly side with the secretive brother.

On the Continent, fungi foraging is widely practised. In parts of Italy, it is so popular that it is strictly controlled by local authorities, who will fine amateurs and professionals alike if they pick too many. This protects the environment, but also means that enthusiastic amateurs are less likely to poison themselves with toadstools (it is rare, but not unheard of). In France, where wild mushroom hunting is equally popular, it is possible to have your find identified in a pharmacy to ensure that it is safe to eat.

In Britain, those in the know are generally cagey about sharing their fungi knowledge. Vast patches of forest (the best places to look) are few and far between. There are also fewer varieties of mushrooms growing in Britain, although there are easily a hundred types for eating. However, you should be very careful if you go mushroom hunting: never do it without an expert or, at the very least, an illustrated guide.