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Fishing for complements

Matching wine with seafood can be tricky – but get the pairing right and you’ll be amazed, says Susy Atkins.
Fishing for complements
Isn't it amazing how the simple action of squeezing a quarter of lemon over a piece of fresh, plain white fish can liven up the flavours of each mouthful? The squirt of zesty juice lifts a fish dish into something fresher, cleaner and more interesting.

It’s the same with wine. Choose a light, fresh, dry white wine – say, a crisp Sauvignon Blanc like Sancerre – and sip a little when you are eating that same piece of soft, fresh fish. The wine acts just like the squeeze of lemon.

With food and wine matching, it often works to pick wines that taste exactly like the best sauces for a particular dish (redcurranty wine for lamb, honeyed wine for desserts), so look for that dry, crisp, citrusy character in a wine to find the best matches for fish and seafood dishes.

Pair like with like
Fish and wine matching can be a tricky balancing act. The golden rule is to pair like with like: rich dishes with rich wines, light dishes with more delicate wines, sweet food with sweet wines and so on. It is sometimes tempting to try to provide a contrast with the wine you serve. Big mistake – the wine can easily overpower the food or vice versa.

So, simple grilled white fish needs a simple zesty white. But richer salmon en croute will overwhelm a light Sauvignon Blanc and make it seem bland. Turn to a bigger, richer style of white, such as a mouth-filling Chardonnay from Burgundy or a peachy Viognier.

Can I drink red wine with fish?
These days, anything goes. Even the snootiest sommelier will be impressed if you order a light, juicy Pinot Noir, a Beaujolais-Villages or an Australian Tarrango with a rich fish dish.

But never pick a tannic red with fish. Tannins, which come from the pips, skins and stalks of the grape, give a wine body and a certain chewy structure. They are fine when you need a bit of backbone in your red to stand up to a rare steak but clash horribly with fish, sometimes creating a nasty metallic hint.

Reds like Pinot Noir and Beaujolais have very low tannin levels and can make a decent match. You could even chill them lightly to bring out their succulent red-berry flavours.

Three of the most useful grapes
Riesling’s wonderful lightness of touch, crisp acidity and crunchy orchard fruit flavours (lemons, apples) make it a natural with fresh fish (it is less successful with seafood).

Chardonnay is more versatile than many imagine. Try big, buttery, oaky Chardonnays as well as lighter unoaked styles and even sparkling Chardonnay with seafood.

Sauvignon Blanc is enticingly fresh. Its pure aroma almost echoes the bracing, slightly salty, wake-me-up character of the best fish and seafood dishes, while its lively lemon, gooseberry, herbs and grapefruit character is nigh on perfect.

TOP TIPS

If in doubt, pick a dry white. Choose a light, unoaked one with simple fresh white fish; and a richer, oakier one with richer, creamier sauces.

Riesling, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most versatile grapes with fish and seafood.

Serve all wines for fish and seafood dishes well chilled – that includes any fizz, rosé, dry sherry or light red you might be serving.

Avoid tannic reds: pick only the softest, lightest, juiciest reds to partner the richest, meatiest fish dishes.

Don’t forget sparkling wine and Champagne, which can make a great match for light fish dishes.

Think about whether the dish demands a completely dry wine. In the case of some sweeter seafood – such as lobster, crab, scallops or prawns – an off-dry style might be more suitable.

Always look at all the ingredients in the dish – not just the main fish or seafood component. Is the sauce spicy or creamy? Are there aromatic herbs or is there a heavy garlic element? Match the wine to the whole plateful.

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