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Food for thought: Head Chef, Paolo Barone

Paolo Barone worked under Giorgio Locatelli, and is now the Head Chef for Locale. Here, he explains why Locale are perfect neighbourhood restaurants, shares his secrets for the best Italian dishes, and how he had a great idea until the Hairy Bikers beat him to it...
Food for thought: Head Chef, Paolo Barone
Paolo Barone is the affable, handlebar-moustached Head Chef of the Locale group, which has restaurants in Blackheath, County Hall (pictured), Fulham, and East Dulwich. He was born and raised in north-east Italy.

Have you always wanted to be a chef?
Yes, since I was a kid and I watched my mother cooking – she was a pretty good cook. I had formal training for two years in Italy, then worked for four years in a restaurant in my hometown. The owner, Adriana, taught me all the basics of traditional Italian food. She showed me tough love!

Why did you leave for the UK?
Living in Italy is a different reality to visiting. Economically it's not simple, there are not the same possibliites, and it's very old-fashioned. I grew up in a small town and I got strange looks (he points to his handlebar moustache). So I came here and 15 years down the line I'm still here.

How did you come to work at Locale?
I was Head Chef when it was called Loco, and got a promotion when the new owners bought it and renamed it Locale.

Do you spend less time in the kitchen now you're an executive chef?
It's more planning, organising, and training. And I deal with suppliers, prices, lots of paperwork... But I still do four shifts a week in the kitchen and spend at least a day on each site.

Will that include the East Dulwich branch that's recently opened?
Yes. That place is going to be sexy! I've redesigned the kitchen in East Dulwich and I've been responsible for everything to do with the food and menus.


Locale East Dulwich

What makes Locale stand out from other, similar, Italian restaurants?
We use the freshest ingredients and seasonal produce, so in May I'll use as much wild garlic as I can, English asparagus is coming into season, and green beans and broad beans. The freshest ingredients is what it's all about.

We're welcoming and family-friendly as neighbourhood restaurants should be. We run regional promotions alongside the menu which we try to do three times a year: this month it's Venetian food at County Hall. And we have wine maker's dinners, where a wine maker comes to explain wines from Italy, and jazz nights at  Blackheath. There are Sunday roasts at Blackheath and Fulham, plus Steak Special Night on Mondays, and the Early Bird menu (£7 for a main course before 7pm, Monday-Friday).

What we're trying to achieve is quality and freshness; I always have a head chef and sous chef in each branch, and I like to use Italian chefs – not because others can't cook, but because they grew up with the flavours, techniques and recipes that have been passed down in their families.

What is the Italian way?
Going to markets and using fresh ingredients is the traditional way in Italy and I want to pass it on. I go to Borough Market, and Covent Garden market. It's a love of food that makes Italian food.

"It's a love of food that makes Italian food"


Is your pasta prepared in-house?
We make some in-house, and some is sourced out to Stefano Cavallini's team (Cavallini is a former Michelin-starred chef who currently runs his own deli, Sapori di Stefano Cavallini, 46 Northcote Rd, London SW11. T: 020 7228 2017).

What's the right way to make pasta?
There are lots of different ways – regional ways – of making pasta. Some use semolina; olive oil; chestnut flour. I follow a straightforward flour and eggs recipe that was passed onto me from Adriana – she got it from her mum; it's passed down the generations.

Is there a secret to Italian food?
Keep everything simple; give space to the flavour.

Do you follow a particular style?
I like the old-style of cooking, from the books of the '60s and '70s. Hearty, winter, comfort food – lots of eggs. And I love to work with fish...

What do you like to eat?
I'd give anything to eat a kilo of T-bone! I do love risotto, and fresh pastas with fillings: ravioli, tortellini. And strudels, which is a typical dish where I'm from.

You're from Gorizia in north-east Italy; do you find regional dishes vary greatly?
There's a huge difference. In the north, near the alps, we have cold winters, so we eat heavy, comfort food.

And in the south?
It's more veggie, and also more spicy; they use salt and anchovies and a lot of chilli to conserve the food. In northern Italy, we use onions and vinegar and olive oil.

Do you love any other types of cuisine?
I love Thai. I've travelled around Asia and love it. Although Thai and Italian, they're as different as night and day.

Who or what inspires you?
Giorgio Locatelli. I used to be a chef at Spiga when he was executive chef of the company. He's crazy but nice. I learned a lot from the passion he has. He's very professional, very knowledgable. And books; they give inspiration and then I work something out and put things together that haven't crossed my mind before.

"The secret to Italian food? Keep everything simple; give space to the flavour"
What tips would you give for people cooking Italian at home?

    * Keep it simple.
    * Fresh ingredients are a must – if you can grow them yourself, even better.
    * Don't overcook fish or vegetables because they lose their flavour.

How would you entertain friends at home?
With a BBQ at Easter or in summer. Back home I would go out with the family and we'd sit near a river. Everyone would bring a dish: lasagne, salad.

Your striking moustache and numerous silver rings give me the impression that you're a biker?
Yes. It will be a passion forever. I have a 1977 original Harley.

A hirsute biker who's also chef that loves to travel? Sounds like a great idea for a TV show...
Ahh, the hairy bikers, yes. I had a great idea like that but they beat me to it!

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