October
At this time of year, the earth’s floor has a bounty of delights, if you know where to look. If you don’t, visit a farmers’ market to see if you can get hold of porcini mushrooms and their wild cousins, says Tom Norrington - Davies.
You’d be hard - pressed to find a leaner and more free-range meat than game, so visit your supermarket or butcher and try Tom Norrington - Davies’ flavoursome autumnal dishes.
October is the last month you can eat mackerel in season, so get your fill of this super fish.
Unceremoniously shoved to one side for a while by rocket and those fancy-Dan micro-greens, watercress is back in pole position.
Eat British, seasonal produce: it will help to reduce carbon emissions, and support the local economy. Check out what autumnal October has to offer...
Grilled fresh porcini mushrooms
Fresh porcini mushrooms are the kings of the forest floor. They have an unrivalled flavour.
Fresh porcini mushrooms are the kings of the forest floor. They have an unrivalled flavour, which intensifies dramatically when dried. Italians prize them in the dried form, partly because they go a lot further and because the season – September to October – is so short. You must try fresh porcini, to see how the taste not only intensifies when they dry out, but how it changes, too. There is one drawback to this: porcini have never been successfully cultivated so they are often seen as prohibitively expensive. In fact, they are pricey, but not in the same league as truffles or London property! Treat yourself to fresh porcini just once or twice every autumn and you will know why they are my favourite mushroom.
The best way to grill porcini is on a dry, smoking hot griddle or frying pan. Have a wide plate ready beside the griddle to lay them flat on after grilling. This way they won’t steam each other and overcook. You are literally going to show them the heat on either side. Season them as they are cooling on the plate with nothing more than a gentle drizzle of olive oil and the stingiest, meanest pinch of salt you can imagine. They will be ever so slightly sweet and gamey; a totally different creature to the musty dried version.
Try serving the grilled porcini on toasted sourdough, or with baby spinach and chicory. Alternatively, toss them with a posh egg pasta, such as pappardelle and a spoonful of butter. Roasted pine nuts are a good addition, as is a little – but only a little – Parmesan.