Reds
The best reds for the job are neither too light and tart (like Beaujolais Nouveau or some inexpensive Italians), nor rich and heavy (premium New World Cabernet and Shiraz). Remember that big, powerful reds are built for hefty main courses, not more delicate canapés.
Go for medium-bodied, soft and smooth styles. Chilean Pinot Noir and Merlot, Californian Zinfandel, inexpensive southern French reds, quality Tuscan reds, Rhône Valley reds and mellow Spanish Rioja are all clever ideas.
You don’t need to break the bank, but do trade up from very basic ‘bargain’ reds which might well taste rough and sour.
Sainsbury’s So Organic Chilean Merlot 2006/2007
(£4.99, Sainsbury's)
The bright ruby colour and fleshy red plum and strawberry fruit make this an appealing, good-value buy for a party. Although this is relatively light, there’s a long, fresh, lip-smacking finish to it.
Old Vines Grenache Noir 2006, Vin de Pays des Côtes Catalanes, France (£5.49, Marks & Spencer)

Great value, with soft but ripe flavours of blackberry and cassis. A generously fruity red that is rounded enough to go well with lighter snacks.
Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel 2004, California (from £6.95, Somerfield, Tesco, Waitrose)

A bit richer, but still this is smooth and ripe with fresh, pippy raspberry fruit and a hint of pepper. Serve with spicy, meaty canapés, such as these
Grana Padano and speck crostini.
Whites
Great party whites certainly aren’t sweet, or richly cloying with loads of vanilla and oak. The most refreshing styles are tangier, with crisp acidity and a clean, palate-tingling finish.
Avoid anything too light and simple, though, as a delicate summer white like Muscadet or German Riesling can easily be overpowered by rich festive canapés and salty snacks.
So, the right styles include New Zealand and Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, Australian Riesling, South African Chenin Blanc and medium-priced Bordeaux whites. Italian whites tend to be popular, but you’re well advised to avoid the really cheap stuff. Chill all whites thoroughly before serving to bring out their succulence.
Tesco Chile Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (£2.96, Tesco)

An astonishingly low price for a dry, crisp Chilean white with a perfumed, gingery aroma and fresh fruit. It’s not sophisticated, but served cold this will go down a storm at a party.
Marks & Spencer Corbières 2006 (£5.79, Marks & Spencer)

A good all-round crowd-pleasing white. Expect an easy-drinking, refreshing white with mineral notes and a hint of white peach. Ripe enough to stand up to mildly spicy food, such as
spiced prawn poppadoms.
Soave Superiore 2005, Cantina di Monteforte, Italy (Waitrose, £6.99)

A cut above the usual Soave, with a delectable grapefruit tang, and a juicy, clean and appealing style. This will be an impressive match for lighter seafood or vegetarian canapés, such as these
ham, cheese and mustard muffins.
Sparklers
Beware ‘great offers’ on cheap Champagne this Christmas, as so-called bargain bubbly can turn out to be sour, thin and acidic. Golden rule: try before buying. For bulk purchases of party fizz, it’s almost always better to rely on New World labels, especially those from New Zealand and Australia.
Cava is the other canny buy – Spain’s traditional fizz is crisp, dry and fruity. Avoid anything sweet, of course, like Asti, which is much better cracked open with Christmas pudding! The word ‘brut’ on the label tells you it’s a dry style, Champagne or otherwise.
Green Point Rosé NV, Australia (£14.99, or £9.99 per bottle if you buy two bottles, Majestic)

Made by Moët & Chandon’s Aussie arm, this is wonderfully creamy with rich strawberry fruit yet a more delicate, zingy finish. It goes surprisingly well with food – try with seafood, or spicy Thai-style canapés.
Tesco Blanc de Noirs Champagne NV (£13.99, Tesco)

Here’s a well-priced Champagne that does impress. There’s lots of toasty, rich flavour with the attractive allure of raspberry fruit (coming from 60 per cent Pinot Noir grapes), and a rounded, mellow finish. A lovely treat, especially with a light bite such as the salmon roulades.