These mushrooms are the kings of the forest floor. Their unrivalled flavour intensifies dramatically when dried. Italians prize them, partly because they go a lot further and because the season – September to October – is so short.
You must try fresh porcini, to see how the taste not only intensifies when they dry out, but how it changes, too. There is one drawback to this: porcini have never been successfully cultivated so they are often seen as prohibitively expensive. In fact, they are pricey, but not in the same league as truffles or London property! Treat yourself to fresh porcini just once or twice every autumn and you will know why they are my favourite mushroom.
The best way to grill porcini is on a dry, smoking hot griddle or frying pan. Have a wide plate ready beside the griddle to lay them flat on after grilling. This way they won’t steam each other and overcook. You are literally going to show them the heat on either side. Season them as they are cooling on the plate with nothing more than a gentle drizzle of olive oil and the stingiest, meanest pinch of salt you can imagine. They will be ever so slightly sweet and gamey; a totally different creature to the musty dried version.
Try serving the grilled porcini on toasted sourdough, or with baby spinach and chicory. Alternatively, toss them with a posh egg pasta, such as pappardelle and a spoonful of butter. Roasted pine nuts are a good addition, as is a little – but only a little – Parmesan.