Best of the best lasagne

Method

1. First make the ragù. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over a high heat and brown the mince, straining off liquid if necessary. Once browned, set aside the mince on a plate. Adjust the heat to medium and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil (if needed), the pancetta, onion, garlic, celery, carrot and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, for about 8 minutes until everything is softened but not coloured.
2. Stir in the tomato pureé and the mince, cook for a minute, then deglaze the pan with the red wine, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom. Bring to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced by around a third (about 5 minutes). Add the tinned tomatoes, passata, herbs and milk. Stir, then cover with a lid and cook gently for 45 minutes. Remove the lid and simmer for 30 minutes more – you want a nice saucy ragù so keep an eye on it, turning the heat down or adding a little water if needed.
3. Meanwhile make the brown butter bechamel. Melt the butter in a large pan over a medium heat and cook until the white solids have turned brown and smell nutty (about 8 minutes). Stir in the flour, cook for a minute while stirring, then whisk in the milk, bit by bit, until you have a smooth sauce. Add the mozzarella and the parmesan, then stir until melted. Add the nutmeg and vinegar, then season to taste.
4. Heat the oven to 170°C fan/gas 5. Spoon some of the ragù into the dish (discarding the bay leaf and thyme). Cover well with lasagne sheets, snapping them into pieces if needed, followed by some bechamel. Repeat with another 2-3 layers (ragù, pasta, bechamel), making sure the final two are pasta and bechamel. Sprinkle with both seeds and the parmesan, then put the dish on a baking sheet and cook for 45-50 minutes until golden and bubbling. Remove from the oven and set aside for at least 10 minutes before serving.