Roast partridge with cider gravy

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 230°C/fan210°C/gas 8. Push a knob of butter and a thyme sprig into the cavity of each partridge, then season well. Cross 2 bacon rashers over the breast of each bird, truss them into a neat shape and secure with string.
2. Heat the olive oil in a small roasting tin, add the onion and chopped bacon, then fry gently for 5 minutes until lightly brown. Scoop into the centre of the tin, put the partridges on top, then roast for 15 minutes. Lower the temperature to 180°C/fan160°C/gas 4 and roast for a further 10 minutes.
3. Remove the tin from the oven and lift the birds onto a plate. Cover with foil and leave somewhere warm to rest while you make the gravy.
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5. Pour the excess fat out of the roasting tin, then place it over a medium-high heat. As soon as it sizzles, add the cider. Scrape the tin with a wooden spoon to release the caramelised juices, then boil for 2 minutes until syrupy. Add the stock and crab apple jelly, then bubble vigorously for 4-5 minutes until reduced and nicely flavoured. Strain into a small pan, then bring back to a simmer. Blend the soft butter with the flour in a cup and whisk in, a little at a time, until the gravy is thickened. Season and serve with the roast partridge, along with a small bunch of watercress.