delicious. magazine's wine editor, Susy Atkins, loves finding a good bottle to go with lamb because it's an excuse to open a powerful red, as lamb is a strongly flavoured, fatty meat and works best with a hearty, robust style of wine...
That said, there’s a big difference between the tender, sweet and subtle flavour of young spring lamb, particularly in succulent cuts such as shoulder, and the richer, more savoury, almost gamey meat of an older animal, especially in cuts such as the leg. For simply cooked spring lamb, stick to a red with berry flavours and a rounded, juicy texture. Younger wines work best; try young, unoaked or lightly oaked Merlot and Tempranillo, which have a bright, fruity character.
Heartier lamb stews and roasts need fuller-bodied styles. Stews can dazzle when served with spicy, firm reds made from Syrah/Shiraz. For roast lamb, with its browned flavours, you’ll need a big gun – a complex, well-structured red from the south of France, or one of Spain’s wine regions, such as Rioja or Ribera del Duero. Barrel-aged wine will suit rich roasts, as its wood-spice and vanilla tannins stand up well to the meat.
Decant full-bodied reds to bring out their aroma, serve at room temperature, and swirl around in large wine glasses (see overleaf). Here are my picks – both budget and special occasion – to go with lamb.
SPAIN
Gran Lopez Tinto 2008, Campo de Borja £3.99, Waitrose
This wine, made from Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes, packs in plenty of juicy flavour. It also has some depth and structure for this low price – one to drink with a casual supper of garlicky lamb chops.
Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2005, Rioja, £13.27, Sainsbury’s and Majestic
An impressive, fine Rioja with a ripe, rich and fruity style but rounded in texture, rather than chunky and heavy. This is a real treat with roast lamb spiked with rosemary.
SOUTH AFRICA
The Whale Caller Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, Western Cape £3.99, Waitrose
There are lovely notes of toast and blackcurrant in this very inexpensive Cape red. Wonderful with a lamb casserole, especially if you’re feeding a crowd.
De Grendel Merlot 2007, Durbanville £9.99, or £7.99 as part of a mixed case, Oddbins
Whoever said Merlot was one-dimensional? Here’s a wine that proves otherwise, with notes of cherry, plum, chocolate and mint. This is great with a sweet, tender shoulder of lamb served with mint jelly.
FRANCE
Chateau David Beaulieu 2008, Bordeaux £5.79, Sainsbury’s
Cheaper claret can be disappointing, but this plummy, smooth red, made mainly from Merlot, is a decent buy. It goes especially well with a plate of cold lamb and salad.
Domaine des Pres-Lasses 2005, Faugeres £10.65, Great Western Wine
A blend of four grapes, including Syrah and Grenache, this perfumed red tastes of cassis and black treacle. It brilliantly complements a traditional roast leg of lamb.