Not so long ago, people poked fun at London cuisine. Not any more, says delicious. editor Matthew Drennan.
Now, the British capital is one of the best places in the world to shop and eat and with hotels offering their best-ever deals to attract customers, a trip to the Big Smoke shouldn’t cost the earth. Sample some of the great food London has to offer with my guide to some of my favourite places to eat in and around the three main Christmas shopping areas. Plus, I’ve included some of the best shops for food gifts en route.
West End (Piccadilly, Soho and Covent Garden)
Arnold Bennet omelette at The Wolseley
Breakfast
The Wolseley on Piccadilly is definitely worth ditching the hotel breakfast for. Originally an Art Deco car sales showroom, it’s now a grand café dining room. There’s everything from Bircher muesli to a divine selection of pastries and wonderful British classics such as omelette Arnold Bennett, porridge and kedgeree.
Meanwhile, if Covent Garden is your premier shopping destination, kick off the day with stunning views at The Portrait Restaurant, on the rooftop of the National Portrait Gallery. Tuck into toasted muffins, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs and a fine array of teas and coffee.
Sam and Eddie Hart, Barrafina
Lunch
Barrafina is the celebrated tapas bar owned by brothers Sam and Eddie Hart, and it’s one of the best you’ll find outside Spain. There are just 23 seats arranged around the L-shaped bar, where you can enjoy watching the chefs cook classic tapas such as pimientos de Padrón, jamón and spinach tortilla, and chorizo with potato and watercress. Turn up early for lunch or dinner, as it’s first-come, first served.
Wahaca is a brilliant, cheap-and-cheerful Mexican eatery in Covent Garden. It’s owned and run by the ‘wild gourmet’ herself, Thomasina Miers, and everything is prepared fresh and sourced in the UK. Tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas, soups and salads abound.
If, like me, some days you simply want the familiar and comforting – especially at lunch – then Côte, on Wardour Street in Soho, is the answer. It’s a modern version of a classic Parisian bistro, with favourites like moules marinières, tuna niçoise, risotto and duck confit – beautiful presentation and great value.
Patisserie Valerie
Coffee and cake
The original Patisserie Valerie has a Sixties feel about it that’s a bit frayed around the edges, but that’s all part of its charm. It’s great for coffee and amazing, classic cakes and pastries.
Food Shopping
Chocolate lovers will find La Maison Du Chocolat directly across the road – ideal for a box of chocolates with a difference.
If cheese is your thing, go to Paxton & Whitfield, which was established in St James’ 200 years ago. A mind-boggling number of cheeses awaits you, and you can taste them all, too.
Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly – the biggest name in London gourmet shopping – comes into its own at Christmas. It’s a winter wonderland of a shopping experience – great for food gifts, chocolates, biscuits and Christmas cakes. It’s the queen of tea shops and, of course, F&M does the best hampers, which it has been doing since before the Crimean War.
Fortnum & Mason
Dinner
I love Great Queen Street, in Covent Garden, partly because one of our contributors, Tom Norrington-Davies, is the chef in residence, but mostly because of the fantastic, honest food. The philosophy is simple: brilliant,seasonal British ingredients, cooked with passion and ingenuity. Think dishes such as crab on toast, a cassoulet to share, roast grouse, Arbroath smokies with cream and chives, and plum and almond tart… and you’ll start to get the picture.
For an urban-stylish Chinese, head for Yauatcha in Broadwick Street, Soho, and check out its funky downstairs dim-sum den. Also a great place for all-day tea and cakes, it’s one of a kind.For me, the restaurant to eat fish in London is J. Sheekey. It has a gentleman’s club feel about it, with discreet, linen- and silver-laden tables. The fish dishes are fanastically fresh, unfussy and classy: skate wing with brown butter and capers, lemon sole meunière, devilled whitebait…all timeless. Book far ahead.
West End (Oxford Street and Marylebone High Street)
Breakfast
Oxford Street is the busiest shopping street in London, but unfortunately it’s not the best place for food. Instead, a 10-minute walk away is Marylebone High Street, an exciting place to shop and eat. Early risers should eat breakfast at The Providores, the award-winning restaurant run by leading New Zealand chef Peter Gordon. It’s also great for lunch or dinner. I love the freshly-baked muffins, scones, baked tarts, and toasted sourdough bread, with jam or manuka honey from New Zealand.
Food shopping
Marylebone High Street is also a great street for food shopping. Drop in on La Fromagerie for some of the best English, Irish and European cheeses, or a great lunch with salads, traiteur-style dishes and amazing cakes. And don’t forget to check out Divertimenti (one of the best cookware shops in London) and The Conran Shop.
Wonder Bar, Selfridges
Lunch
For my money, the best store on Oxford Street is Selfridges, and inside there’s a great place to have lunch, especially if you’re a wine lover. Wonder Bar has a unique ‘wine jukebox’ – a way of enjoying wine that allows you to serve yourself a taste, a half-glass or a glass, and explore the world’s finest vintages. Complement your wines with a platter of fish, charcuterie or cheese, each served with a basket of fresh bread.
Oxford Street suffers from fast-food fatigue, but there’s one outlet that’s definitely worth visiting: Leon. This is fast food with options such as ‘good carbs/good sugars’ and ‘low or no animal fat’, as well as dairy-, wheat- and lactose-free choices – it’s fresh and absolutely delicious. Choose from salads, salmon and vegetable wraps, smoothies and cakes. Leon has several outlets, but the nearest to Oxford Street is just off fashionable Carnaby Street.
Dinner
You have to stray from Oxford Street for dinner, but not too far. For a special treat, visit Locanda Locatelli – you can’t come to London and not have one splash-out meal prepared by a celebrity chef, after all. In this case it’s the wonderful Giorgio Locatelli, chef-patron of one of the finest modern Italian restaurants in the UK – and it’s one of Nigella Lawson’s favourites. Go hungry beforehand, because everything from the grissini sticks and baskets of bread through to the pasta dishes are simply amazing, and you won’t want to miss out on anything. Book early.
This was the year everyone fell in love with Wild Honey, the latest restaurant from another up-and-coming foodie star, Anthony Demetre. The changing menu is modern European with French leanings. Delicious starters include things like pressed rabbit and chicken with lemon, parsley and apple-and-pear chutney. There are mains such as bouillabaisse ‘Marseille style’, and you must try its signature dessert: wild honey ice cream with crushed honeycomb. Best of all, the prices are fairly modest for Mayfair.
South Bank
London’s South Bank has become something of a top gourmet destination in the past few years, and it’s my foodie destination every day, as it’s where the delicious. offices are located. If you’re making an early start, you can’t go wrong with breakfast at the Monmouth Coffee Company in Borough Market. The coffee is so good Londoners queue up for it every morning. And the pastries are excellent, too. If you have something more substantial in mind, walk across the road to Roast and feast on its ‘full Borough’, a cooked breakfast that draws on the finest ingredients from the market, which it overlooks.
Borough Market
Food Shopping
Borough Market (open Thursday, Friday and Saturday) is busy, noisy and bursting with wonderful produce. Come early to beat the crowds and you’ll be rewarded with an amazing array of goodies: barrows piled high with mistletoe and holly, steaming-hot mulled wine and fresh mince pies. It’s a great place to buy things like smoked salmon, cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy, hams from the Ginger Pig or cured meats from Brindisa delicatessen. Shop for either your Christmas essentials or the contents of a gift hamper – and bring a large, strong bag or shopping trolley. When your feet start to ache, drop into Konditor & Cook for coffee and cake..
Lunch
If you decide to have lunch before you leave Borough, one of my favourites is Tapas Brindisa, on the corner of the market, not to be confused with the shop of the same name inside Borough. It offers first-rate tapas that make the best of fine Spanish imports, coupled with fresh, seasonal produce from closer to home.
Tate Modern Restaurant, further west along the South Bank, is a must if you are unfamiliar with London, as you get an amazing view of the city as well as great food. Expect affordable dishes such as chargrilled salt-marsh leg of lamb steak or deep-fried fresh haddock with chips and mushy peas.
For a different atmosphere, have lunch at Bincho Yakitori in the Oxo Tower Wharf. This is Japanese with a difference – all the food comes on skewers with a choice of different grilled meats or vegetarian dishes. And don’t forget to try out its extensive sake menu.
Skylon
Dinner
Skylon at the Royal Festival Hall is another restaurant that makes the most of the South Bank views and with its chic, modern take on Fifties design, it is a real joy to dine in. Chef Helena Puolakka draws on her Finnish roots for her modern menu. It’s got a great cocktail bar with a formal restaurant and grill.
The Anchor & Hope has become something of a canteen for the delicious. team. It has a great pub atmosphere – with the dining area on the side of the bar and its gutsy, no-frills, seasonal dishes. You can’t book but you can always wait for a table in the bar.
King's Road and Knightsbridge
Breakfast
Fuel up for a day’s shopping on the King’s Road at The Botanist, near Sloane Square tube. There’s traditional British breakfast fare, or some American alternatives, such as blueberry pancakes and home-made granola. Or try Le Pain Quotidien, part of a Belgian chain featuring large communal tables and wholesome, fresh pastries, muffins and bread.
Food Shopping
At the far end of the King’s Road is Rococo chocolates, which has one of the best selections of artisan chocolates and other confectionery. Choose one of its gift boxes or make up your own selection.
Harrods
Harrods is the ultimate Christmas shopping destination. It’s busy, bustling and more than a little over the top, but the food halls are wonderful. Don’t miss out on Parisian shop Ladurée’s in-store counter with its beautiful technicolour macaroons in flavours like lavender and pistachio. Eat in or take some away as a wonderful gift. A quicker (and cheaper) hit of coffee and sugar can be found at the Krispy Kreme concession on the same floor, where you’ll find some of the best (and sweetest) doughnuts ever.
Lunch
Tom’s Kitchen is Tom Aikens’ casual alternative to his Michelin-starred haute cuisine restaurant nearby, making it a more suitable venue for lunch. Pale wood tables in an attractive space with a good mixed menu, featuring dishes such as Cumberland sausages with mash and onion gravy, macaroni cheese and roast beef with Yorkshire puds.
Dinner
Amaya is an Indian restaurant with a difference. This classy Belgravia venue has won rave reviews for its grazing formula based around Indian grilling methods. Think gourmet Indian, in tapas-size portions. It has an open grill, so you can watch the chefs cook, but be warned – it comes with a hefty price tag.
Mango Tree in Belgravia is reasonably priced for somewhere with such a swanky address and décor. The great Thai dishes are beautifully presented and might include grilled aubergine salad with crispy onions, breaded shrimp cake with plum sauce, Panang curry with lamb shank or green curry with corn-fed chicken. A delicious end to a delicious day.
London restaurants at a glance
£££ = Splash out
££ = Mid-range
£ = Cheap and cheerful
West End (Piccadilly, Soho and Covent Garden)
The Wolseley ££
160 Piccadilly, W1
T: 020 7499 6996
The Portrait Restaurant £
Ondaatje Wing, National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, WC2
T: 020 7312 2490
Barrafina ££
54 Frith Street, W1
T: 020 7813 8016
Wahaca £
66 Chandos Place, WC2
T: 020 7240 1883
Côte £
124-126 Wardour Street, W1
T: 020 7287 9280
Patisserie Valerie £
44 Old Compton Street, W1
T: 020 7437 3466
Great Queen Street ££
32 Great Queen Street, WC2
T: 020 7242 0622
Yauatcha ££
15 Broadwick Street, W1
T: 020 7494 8888
J. Sheekey £££
28-32 St Martin’s Court, WC2
T: 020 7240 2565
West End (Oxford Street and Marlyebone)
The Providores ££
109 Marylebone High Street, W1
T: 020 7935 6175
Wonder Bar £-£££
Ground Floor, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, W1
T: 0800 123400
Leon £
35 Great Marlborough Street, W1
T: 020 7437 5280
Locanda Locatelli £££
8 Seymour Street, W1
T: 020 7935 9088
Wild Honey ££
12 St George Street, W1
T: 020 7758 9160
South Bank
15 Monmouth Coffee Company £
Borough Market, 8 Southwark Street, SE1
T: 020 7232 3010
Roast ££
The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, Borough Market, SE1
T: 020 7940 1300
Tapas Brindisa ££
18-20 Southwark Street, SE1
T: 020 7357 8880
Tate Modern Restaurant ££
7th Floor, Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1
T: 020 7887 8888
Bincho Yakitori ££
2nd Floor, Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, SE1
T: 020 7803 0858
Skylon ££-£££
South Bank Centre, Belvedere Road, SE1
T: 020 7654 7800
Anchor and Hope ££
36 The Cut, SE1
T: 020 7928 9898
King’s Road & Knightsbridge
The Botanist ££
7 Sloane Square, SW1
T: 020 7730 0077
Le Pain Quotidien £
201-203 King’s Road, SW3
T: 020 7486 6154
Tom’s Kitchen ££
27 Cale Street, SW3
T: 020 7349 0202
Amaya Halkin Arcade £££
Motcomb Street, SW1
T: 020 7823 1166
Mango Tree ££
46 Grosvenor Place, SW1
T: 020 7823 1888
London shops at a glance
£££ = Splash out
££ = Mid-range
£ = Cheap and cheerful
West End (Piccadilly, Soho and Covent Garden)
Fortnum & Mason £-£££
181 Piccadilly, W1
T: 020 7734 8040
La Maison du Chocolat £££
45-46 Piccadilly, W1
T: 020 7287 8500
Paxton & Whitfield £-£££
93 Jermyn Street, SW1
T: 020 7930 0259
West End (Oxford Street and Marlyebone)
La Fromagerie ££
2-6 Moxon Street, W1
T: 020 7935 0341
Divertimenti £-£££
33-34 Marylebone High Street, W1
T: 020 7935 0689
The Conran Shop £-£££
55 Marylebone High Street, W1
T: 020 7723 2223
South Bank
Borough Market £-£££
8 Southwark Street, SE1
T: 020 7407 1002
Neal’s Yard Dairy £-£££
6 Park Street, SE1
T: 020 7367 0799
Ginger Pig ££
8 Southwark Street, SE1
T: 020 7403 4721
Brindisa (delicatessen) ££
The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, SE1
T: 020 7407 1036
Konditor & Cook ££
10 Stoney Street, SE1
T: 020 7407 5100
King’s Road & Knightsbridge
Rococo Chocolates £-£££
321 Kings Road, SW3
T: 020 7352 5857
Harrods £-£££
87–135 Brompton Road, SW1
T: 020 7730 1234
Ladurée at Harrods (see above) ££
T: 020 3155 0111
Krispy Kreme at Harrods (see above) £
T: 020 7730 1234