Tom Kerridge on 20 years of “incredible experiences and absolute nightmares” at the Hand & Flowers

Congratulations on 20 years of the Hand & Flowers! How was the anniversary party?
Thank you! It’s been a crazy 20 years, but it’s been brilliant. It’s gone quickly but, when I look back, so much has been achieved. So it feels like a mixture of amazement and a retrospective of incredible experiences. Some brilliant, others absolute nightmares, but they’ve all been part of the journey.

We decided to invite all our friends and people we know in the industry, those who have been a part of the journey with us and been our friends for 20 years, whose own businesses have also grown alongside ours. People like Tom Kitchin, Adam Byatt, Heston, Raymond Blanc (they’ve always been supportive) and then great friends like Clare Smyth, Simon Rogan, Mark Birchall, Brett Graham. To celebrate all our places with fantastic friends and chefs who have been on the same journey was just brilliant.

Was it a boozy one? Of course you’ve been sober for a few years now.
Everyone was on their best behaviour and on really good form. We all went home and were tucked up in our beds by midnight. I think things have definitely changed, drinking-wise, but I don’t know if that’s because we’ve got older… It was very civilised. People were drinking quality stuff as opposed to quantity. And I think, if you’re in the world of food and beverage, and you know, you’re 50 years old, you go, actually, I just enjoy something of quality and not a huge amount of it.

What’s your non-alcoholic beverage of choice?
I don’t do alcohol alternatives, although my wife will quite often drink non-alcoholic or zero alcohol beers or Guinness.

Any plans for this summer?
I’m a huge fan of outdoor cooking, and I’m particularly excited because we’re currently renovating our garden to include an outdoor kitchen. We’re hoping to spend a lot more time out there cooking on a Sunday, which is exactly where I want to be.

I love cooking on coals, pizza ovens and all of that stuff. It’s a great way of gathering people. And it’s nice to have lots of different flavours mixed together. But you don’t have to worry about the crossover of global cuisines, because it’s all cooked outdoors, so it all tastes delicious! And then on a professional level, we have the Pub In The Park festivals, so we’re hoping for warm weather. If you’re into the festival season, that’s exactly where you want to be.

You have a barbecue book out at the moment, and you’ve shared a recipe with us (below). Which do you prefer, hosting or attending barbecues?
I don’t mind either really, but I thoroughly enjoy the cooking process of hosting. We’re quite lucky that we’ve got a big enough space to be able to host a few friends. So it always works well. Around our house it’s a big enough garden for the kids to have a good run around and have fun.

For those intimidated by cooking outdoors, what’s a foolproof barbecue recipe that’s almost impossible to mess up?
I think what happens is you get barbecue geeks who are brilliant at it, and it can feel intimidating when they’re talking about a 16-hour slow-cooked brisket you then wrap in paper and leave, and you know, you got to do the dry rub and it all feels a little bit, “Oh my God”.

I think most people feel like there’s a big skill set and you should be worried about how to do it properly. But start off simply, cooking grilled chicken breast, say, then do something like beer can chicken, which is a great thing to do on one of those egg-style barbecues. After that you can move forward to those longer, slower cooks.

Just simply cooking steaks on a barbecue is a lovely introduction, and the flavour, the char marks and the smokiness – they really do lift your cookery to a flavour profile you can’t get from anything else. So I really wouldn’t worry about it at all. And the only way you’re going to get better at it is by giving it a go. Be brave with it.

What’s a simple way to add Michelin-starred flair to a barbecue or garden party?
I think the use of vegetables is overlooked. A lot of people don’t think of doing things like grilling asparagus in spring (which is beautiful), or quarters of those vibrant hispi cabbages, slow-cooked and charred – absolutely lovely.

You’re an avid air fryer user and many of our readers love them. What would you use one for in summer?
I think there’s probably a lot you could get done with an air fryer. You could give some small potatoes an initial cook before you chargrill them. The longer they spend on the barbecue the better, to get that good flavour. But there’s nothing wrong with having things like potatoes prepped in an air fryer.

What’s an underrated vegetable, meat or fish that home cooks should be trying on the barbecue?
A bavette steak is a really good one because it’s quite thin and it’s relatively cost effective. You can cook it quite quickly. Sear it heavily on both sides, then leave it to rest and you end up with this beautifully pink, gorgeous steak you cut against the grain so it’s nice and tender.

Any tips and tricks for stress-free entertaining when hosting outdoors?
So much of it is about structure, making sure you know what you’re doing and having an understanding of what you’re going to do. So don’t just walk into it blind – a little bit of planning will go a long way to ensuring your barbecue goes off with no stress.

Coleslaw or corn on the cob for the rest of your life?
Coleslaw!

Tom’s zesty barbecue recipe

Salmon with fennel and dill
This dish is all about balancing the smoky, herby flavours of seasoned salmon with a creamy, tangy mustard and herb crème fraîche that adds just the right amount of zing. Serve with steamed baby potatoes and a lemon wedge and you have a meal that’s both satisfying and sophisticated.

Recipe taken from The BBQ Book by Tom Kerridge (Bloomsbury £25) and tested by delicious.

Read more interviews with food heroes and celebrities.