Where to eat in Prague

There’s a lot to see in the Czech Republic’s capital: gothic churches, baroque buildings, the famous medieval astronomical clock… These pleasures, along with a stroll over the Charles Bridge and a visit to the castle, involve quite a bit of outdoorsyness. So as well as coats, scarves and rosy cheeks, you’ll need to pack a reliable list of where to come in from the cold for warming food and drink…

Hunker-down café culture

For regular stops, you’ll be glad to know the city’s cafés, famous since its cultural heyday in the 19th century, are still a major part of Prague life. Café Slavia (Smetanovo nábř. 1012 /2, 110 00) scores on both the ‘café’ and ‘culture’ fronts. Opened in 1884, opposite the National Theatre, it has long attracted artists and actors. The breakfast croque madame, served until 2pm at weekends, is a hearty winner, and the organic coffee is meticulously sourced. Feeling Bohemian? You can have it with a shot of absinthe.

For a more fashionable combo of art and caffeine, the Prague 7 district – in the north on the left bank of the Vltava – may be Prague’s coolest postcode. Art galleries abound, as does street art, and there are many cafés for celebrated local pastries such as Koláče (sweet, stuffed with poppy seeds or cream cheese and fruit) and Medovnik (honey cake). There’s also Vnitroblock (Tusarova 791/31, 170 00), which combines coffee (and all-day dining) with a huge and varied arts space. At the other end of the size spectrum, tiny Ye’s Kafé (Za Karlínským přístavem 699/18) has some of the best coffee in the city.

Another great way to combine food and art is to tour Prague’s National Gallery, an exceptional art collection spread across nine locations, four of which offer café or restaurant spaces nearby, such as Kolektor (Dukelských Hrdinů 530/47, 170 00) at the Trade Fair Palace. It’s big, bright and airy, and the almond pancake with blueberry ragout, alongside a Nepalese black tea, will fuel your further adventures.

Hearty local cooking

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad) has dominated the city’s skyline since 880. It’s been added to considerably since but remains the official office of the President of the Czech Republic. It’s an excellent place to start exploring the city but it’s easy to lose hours looking around the site, so you’ll be grateful for Kuchyň (Hradčanské nám. 186/1, 118 00) and chef Marek Janouch’s take on hearty Czech home cooking: expect pork schnitzel, roast duck with red cabbage and dumplings and vepřo knedlo zelo (pork, dumplings and sauerkraut) to warm the cockles.

Café Restaurant Na Baště in the Castle’s gardens offers lighter fare for all your soup, sandwich or strudel needs, while L4 Café (Lázeňská 287/4, 118 00 Malá Strana), on the way to Charles Bridge, has fuel in the form of excellent coffee, hot chocolate and pastries.

Contemporary eats

While much of Prague looks to the past, 21st-century needs are well catered to. At the Almanac X Alcron Prague hotel’s restaurant (Štěpánská 623/40, 110 00 Nové Město), head chef Richard Bielik nods to tradition but also moves veg – and vegetarian and vegan dishes – front and centre. Their Almanac X Coffee Shop also offers an impressive range of plant-based options.

Northeast of the centre, Karlin is a once-industrial neighbourhood that’s now a dynamic and fashionable hub of restaurants and galleries. Here you’ll find Eska (Pernerova 49, 186 00 Karlín), an impressive bakery and restaurant, with variations of classic dishes (the pumpkin soup is a filling bowlful), superb bread and pastries, and a full vegetarian menu.

All hail the ale!

First produced in 1842 in the nearby city of Pilsen, pilsner beer is a major part of the Czech Republic’s history and Prague life. Bars and beer halls are plentiful, but the historic U Hrocha (Thunovská 10, 118 00 Malá Strana), which translates, charmingly, as ‘Hippopotamus’, in the old cobbled streets below the castle, is a fine starting spot for a Pilsner Urquell, the only beer they serve. Expect stone walls, slightly surly service and for your (excellent) beer to come with a thick foam – 20-25% of the glass. This is common in Prague, a thick and creamy foam demonstrates the quality of the beer and seals in freshness and flavour.

U Zlatého Tygra (Husova 228/17 Staré Město), ‘House at the Golden Tiger’ is also great – and they’ll keep pouring you Pilsner Urquell until you place your beer mat over your glass. For a more contemporary take – and a wider range of beers – the city is dotted with breweries such as (family friendly) Pivovar Národní (Národní 8, 110 00 Nové Město), whose good-value food (including beer-roasted sausages) is sure to satisfy. Don’t be too tempted by all that lovely beer, though – there’s still lots to see…

Where to stay

Almanac X Alcron Prague (Štěpánská 623/ 40, 110 00) is a smart, art-lined luxury hotel. Like most places in Prague, it’s accessible by foot or the city’s excellent public transport. Doubles from £159 room only.

For a taste of 19th-century glamour, Le Palais Art Hotel (U Zvonařky 1, 120 00 Praha 2-Vinohrady) blends the baroque and the modern in this intimate old villa. Doubles from £79 room only.

Getting there

There are multiple flights a day (with a flight time of 2-3 hours) taking off from many British airports. January flights start from around £66 return on Skyscanner.

Photographs: iStock/Getty Images

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