Spicy Thai green chicken curry

Method

1. Pound the green curry paste ingredients in a pestle and mortar with a pinch of salt, starting with the hardest ones, as listed, working down to the softest, until you have a uniform, close-textured paste (see box, left, and Make Ahead).
2. To make the curry, heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan or wok and fry the curry paste over a medium heat until it smells fragrant. Add half the coconut milk, then bring to the boil slowly, stirring to dissolve the paste. Once the paste has dissolved, turn down the heat and let the coconut milk simmer until you see oil appearing on the surface. Stir in 200ml cold water, then turn up the heat to bring the curry to the boil again.
3. Add the chicken and Thai round aubergines, then the remaining coconut milk. Bring back to the boil, then simmer for 6 minutes. Add the fish sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning – it should taste hot, salty and herbaceous. If the curry is too thick, add a little extra water. You want soupiness, not a thick gravy.
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4. Add the pea aubergines (if using), bamboo shoots and the long green chillies. Simmer for another 3-4 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the aubergines are just tender. Taste and season again.
5. Top with the Thai basil, coriander (if using) and extra bamboo shoots. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.