Nicola Lamb’s crullers

Method

1. Pour the milk into a saucepan and add the butter, sugar and 65g water, then bring to a rolling boil. Stir to make sure the sugar is dissolved. Sift the flour several times to prevent lumps, then add into your boiling liquid.
2. Turn the heat down and stir rapidly until the mixture turns into a smooth paste and a dry film forms on top. Check it has reached 85°C on the thermometer. Put the paste in a bowl and either spread it out to cool down or beat at a slow speed in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment.
3. Meanwhile, whisk the eggs and salt together – this makes them easier to combine as the salt will break down the eggs slightly. When you can touch the paste comfortably for 10 seconds, start to mix in the eggs. I do this in 3-4 additions, mixing well between each one. The choux paste should be smooth and shiny when it’s ready (see Tips). Transfer to a piping bag with a fluted tip or nozzle.
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5. Pour the vegetable oil into a large deep saucepan – the oil should be at least 5cm deep and there should be at least 5cm between the oil and the rim of the pan. Set it over a medium-high heat and bring to 180°C.
6. Meanwhile, cut out 8 x 10cm squares of baking paper. Pipe a 7-8cm ring (about 40g each) of choux paste onto each square (see Tips).
7. When the oil is hot, slide the piped choux rings gently into the oil with the paper on, cruller-side down – a maximum of three or so at a time, or as many as you feel confident to do. There’s no rush. Use heatproof tongs to remove the paper as it naturally releases from the crullers. Monitor the oil temperature to ensure it stays at 180°C for the best results. Cook for 3-4 minutes, then flip and cook for another 3-4 minutes.
8. Remove the crullers from the oil using a slotted spoon and leave to drain on a cooling rack. While still warm, dip in your chosen glaze or toss in sugar, then leave to set on the rack. Enjoy immediately, or store for up to a day in an airtight container.

For the black ‘n’ blue glaze
Smoosh 30g blackberries, 30g blueberries and 1⁄4 tsp salt together in a bowl, then stir in 200g icing sugar. Add 10-20g lemon juice until the consistency is thick but pourable. Once set on the cruller, decorate with extra blueberries and blackberries.

For the hibiscus glaze
Whizz together 15g dried hibiscus flowers and 1 tsp chilli flakes, then stir into 150g caster sugar.

For the vanilla cinnamon glaze
Whisk together 200g icing sugar, 50g whole milk, 1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon, 1⁄4 tsp sea salt flakes and 1 tsp vanilla extract. Check the seasoning and make sure the consistency is pourable but still thick.