How to cook perfect lamb leg, shoulder & saddle

Different cuts of lamb require distinct cooking methods. As with all meats, it’s the cheaper cuts – shoulder, shank, belly and neck – that benefit from low and slow cooking, which breaks down tough muscles and renders gravy-enriching fats. Thanks to its rich flavour, lamb can stand up to bold spices, so curries and tagines are a great choice as they can bubble away for hours without becoming overcooked.

The more expensive lamb cuts require more skill to get that melt-in-the-mouth medium-rare finish. These tender cuts, such as rack, cutlets, noisettes and saddle, all feature the lamb loin – also known as the cannon – and sit under the ribs. They’re the equivalent of the fillet steak, so they need to be cooked hot, fast and with great care so they’re juicy and tender. Choose your favourite cut and method below, then get ready to enjoy some seriously good lamb.

The easy cut: Lamb shoulder

Cooking method: The five-hour braise
Recipe: Slow-cooked orange wine lamb shoulder with shallots
Braised in funky orange wine, this lamb shoulder is as easy as it is magnificent, but some might say the shallots are the star of the show. Lounging in wine, thyme, anchovies and lamb fat, these melt-in-the-mouth morsels are not to be overlooked.

What makes it so easy?
This recipe relies on the magic of long cooking to let the tough fibres break down and the fat render to enrich the sauce. Anchovies, thyme and shallots are flavour boosters, but the key ingredient is the orange wine. Its naturally funky, almost farmy flavours complement the rich taste of the lamb, resulting in some seriously delicious fall-apart meat. Braising with whole shallots is a no-brainer; they soak up the wonderful juices and almost confit in the lamb fat, so they’re practically spreadable after 5 hours. Serve on the side or chop and mix into the pulled lamb.

Serve it with…
Buttery mashed potatoes or big floury bread buns – something to soak up that incredible braising liquid.

The intermediate cut: Lamb leg

Cooking method: Pan-fry, then finish in the oven
Recipe: Lemon, garlic and rosemary leg of lamb with mint sauce
You just can’t beat the trad flavours of lamb, garlic and rosemary with mint sauce. This method takes a little love but it will reward you with perfectly tender pink meat.

What makes it intermediate?
I think lamb leg could be my favourite cut. While it can also be braised low and slow, it’s leaner than shoulder, meaning it’s more at risk of drying out. It’s pretty foolproof to cook but you need to ensure the meat is cooked medium-rare so it’s not tough. Removing the bone and butter-flying the meat speeds things up while rendering the external fat in a pan gives you more control so you’re able to achieve a golden caramelisation. This method is also ideal for the barbecue, too. Classic mint sauce will cut through the rich flavour and layer of fat.

Serve it with…
The Mediterranean flavours of rosemary, garlic and lemon in the marinade will suit lemony potatoes and tomato-braised greens. Or try a bougie side dish such as our caesar asparagus or four cheese, leek and walnut gratin.

The challenging cut: Lamb saddle

Cooking method: Stuffed and roasted
Recipe: Lamb saddle stuffed with a herby chicken mousseline
Spring lamb saddle is stuffed with a light-as-air chicken mousseline made bright green with fresh herbs. This dish is the epitome of the season and the perfect treat for Easter Sunday.

What makes it challenging?
The most expensive cut of the bunch, the lamb saddle takes skill and care to perfect, but the results are worth it. Attention to detail, such as patiently pan-frying to render the fat all over while not burning the skin, is what will take your lamb to another level. Learning to tie a proper butcher’s knot will give you a professional look – and it’s handy when it comes to portioning, too. If you’re after the ultimate challenge, ask your butcher for a saddle with the bone in, then have a go at taking it out.

Serve it with…
The simplicity of steamed spring vegetables (baby carrots, radishes and peas) goes well with the sweetness of lamb, as do new potatoes with butter. If you’re having the bones removed, ask your butcher to chop them up, then use them to make an excellent lamb gravy.

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