How to make your own mustard

Whether snaking across the top of a hotdog, glazing a glorious ham or whisked into a simple French vinaigrette, mustard – I’m going to say it – knocks ketchup off the top spot for the best condiment. It packs a special, sinus-clearing heat and comes in so many different variations of strength and texture; there really is a mustard out there for everyone.

I love talking about mustard. After working as a chef for eight years, I changed career to be a food writer and the first feature I ever wrote was about the yellow condiment – and suddenly I was hooked. I was fascinated by the history, myths and, especially, the science concerning this special condiment. And, six years later, I still love dishing out the mustard facts – and now I have a delicious. audience to share them with. So… Mustard dabs at the ready – let’s dive in.

It starts with a seed

Mustard seeds are incredibly versatile. While we often associate mustard with heat, the seed when sizzled whole brings a nutty aroma with a subtle, peppery warmth. You can also extract oil from mustard seeds, which has a fiery heat when raw but provides a mellow, nutty warmth when tempered.

When you crush the seed, however, magic happens. The scientific explanation is that the compound sinigrin (in brown or black seeds) or sinalbin (in yellow seeds) comes into contact with an enzyme in the seed called myrosinase. When activated by liquid, a chemical reaction occurs, releasing the vapour responsible for the unique nose-tingling heat we get with mustard. Yellow seeds are milder in taste and heat, while black and brown seeds are hotter.

Varying the flavour

The type of liquid and the temperature of the liquid added to the seeds play a big part in the strength and longevity of mustard. That’s why there are so many varieties – and it’s what makes it such a fun condiment to experiment with. Here’s what you need to know…

Heating for a milder result
Gently heating mustard in a pan will mellow out the flavour; sweet American mustard is made this way.

Adding vinegar
By contrast, adding cold water to the crushed seeds or powder will give you a hot, sharp mustard, though it will lose its heat quickly. For a tangy, sharp condiment with greater shelf life, vinegar is your best bet as its acidity stabilises mustard, holding on to its fiery heat and making it last longer. There are many to play around with to alter the flavour, from wine and cider vinegars to sherry or malt vinegar.

Adding alcohol
For more refined, complex flavours, add alcohol, either in place of or combined with vinegar. White wine is standard, but beer mustards are popular in Germany, while the French make a spectacular cognac mustard. Vinegar is made from alcohol, so you can pair flavours easily: sherry vinegar with sherry, malt vinegar with dark beer – and red wine vinegar goes well with sweet port.

Aging your mustard

Don’t be alarmed if results aren’t immediately pleasant. Freshly made mustard can taste sharp and bitter because of the intense reactions between its compounds and the liquid. Ageing allows these harsh flavours to mellow. Just 24-48 hours should leave you with a more rounded, settled flavour, but a few months will give you something beautifully balanced and complex.

Sweetening and seasoning

Mustard seeds are bitter, so you may need something sweet and salty to offset this. Salt, sugar and honey are common flavour balancers, but you could also try maple syrup or treacle. Turmeric is often added to boost mustard’s bright yellow colour while bringing a pleasant earthiness. Herbs, spices or berries can also help mask the bitterness (and add flavour) if you want to experiment. A tangy blackberry and port mustard works well with game, while cider and tarragon mustard is a great addition to chicken.

Making dijon mustard

If you’re keen to make proper dijon, instead of vinegar you’ll need verjus, the tart juice made from unripe grapes (a natural byproduct of the winemaking process – available from Sous Chef). It’s less acidic, providing dijon’s signature tang.

Putting in jars and storing

To store, use a sterilised glass or plastic jar with a plastic or non-reactive metal lid (not unlined aluminium – the reactive metal interferes with the chemical reactions). If you’re making a batch or want to age it, most mustards can be stored in sealed jars in a cool, dark place for years. Once opened, it’s best kept in the fridge and used within 3 weeks. Some of my variations need to be stored in the fridge from the start. See our guide on how to sterilise jars.

Polly’s foolproof mustard recipes

English mustard
Makes 25ml
Prep time 5 min

• 2 tsp English mustard powder
• 2 tsp chilled water
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar

1. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl with a pinch of salt and stir to a paste. Use immediately. It’s best to make English mustard in small batches as the heat dissipates quickly.

Per tsp 7kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (no sugars), no salt, 0.5g fibre (Vegan, Gluten-free, Dairy-free)

American mustard
Makes 280ml
Prep time 15 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 60g yellow mustard seeds
• 100ml dry white wine
• 100ml cider vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1⁄2 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tbsp honey

1. Put the mustard seeds, wine and vinegar in a non-reactive (stainless steel or glass) container and set aside at room temperature for 24 hours to soften. The seeds will expand as they absorb the liquid, so use a good size container.
2. Strain the mustard seeds through a fine sieve, reserving the liquid. Whizz the seeds in a blender or small food processor, adding the reserved liquid to create a smooth paste. Add a dash of cold water if more liquid is needed. Season with the salt, then stir in the turmeric and honey.
3. Simmer the mixture gently for 10 minutes, then transfer to a sterilised jar to age in the fridge for at least 48 hours.

Per tsp 7kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (0.5 sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free)

Wholegrain mustard
Makes 270ml
Prep time 5 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 30g yellow mustard seeds
• 30g black mustard seeds
• 100ml dry white wine
• 100ml white wine vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1⁄4 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tbsp honey

1. Put the mustard seeds, wine and vinegar in a non-reactive container and set aside at room temperature for 24 hours to soften. The seeds will expand and absorb a lot of the liquid, so use a container larger than you think you might need.
2. Strain the mustard seeds, reserving the liquid. Grind briefly using a pestle and mortar, then add the liquid back in to create a thick paste. Add a dash of cold water if more liquid is needed. Season with a pinch of salt, then stir in the turmeric and honey. Transfer to a sterilised jar to age in the fridge for at least 48 hours before using.

Per tsp 7kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (0.5 sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free)

Wholegrain mustard variations

Marmite mustard
Makes 300ml
Prep time 5 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 30g yellow mustard seeds
• 30g black mustard seeds
• 100ml dry white wine
• 100ml malt vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp Marmite
• 1 tbsp dark brown sugar

1. Follow the wholegrain recipe (above) using malt in place of white wine vinegar. Stir in the Marmite and sugar at the end instead of turmeric and honey, then age and store in the fridge.

Per tsp 8kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (0.5 sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegan, Dairy-free)

Herb-infused mustard
Makes 300ml
Prep time 5 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 60g yellow mustard seeds
• 100ml dry white wine
• 100ml sherry vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp caster sugar
• 30g finely chopped herbs (eg tarragon, parsley, dill, chives)

1. Follow the wholegrain recipe (above) using all yellow mustard seeds and sherry vinegar instead of white wine vinegar. Stir in the sugar and herbs instead of turmeric and honey, then age and store in the fridge.

Per tsp 7kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (0.5 sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free)

Fruity mustard
Makes 350ml
Prep time 5 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 30g yellow mustard seeds
• 30g black mustard seeds
• 100ml Chambord or cassis
• 100ml red wine vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp honey
• 75g fresh or frozen blackberries, blackcurrants, raspberries or cherries, mashed into a paste

1. Follow the wholegrain recipe (above) using Chambord or cassis instead of wine, and red wine vinegar instead of white. Stir in the berries instead of turmeric, then age and store in the fridge.

Per tsp 9kcals, no fat, 0.5g protein, 0.8g carbs (0.7 sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegetarian, Gluten-free, Dairy-free)

Guinness mustard
Makes 270ml
Prep time 5 min, plus 24 hours softening and 48 hours ageing

• 30g yellow mustard seeds
• 30g black mustard seeds
• 150ml Guinness
• 50ml malt vinegar
• 1⁄2 tsp fine salt
• 1 tsp soft brown sugar

1. Follow the wholegrain recipe (above) using Guinness instead of wine, and malt vinegar instead of white wine vinegar. Stir in the sugar instead of turmeric and honey.

Per tsp 6kcals, 0.5g fat (no saturated), 0.5g protein, 0.5g carbs (trace sugars), 0.1g salt, no fibre (Vegan, Dairy-free)

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