The Miller of Mansfield, Goring, hotel review
Nestled away in the picturesque village of Goring lies The Miller of Mansfield, also known as The Modern Inn. If you’re looking for a cosy and comfortable rural retreat, or perhaps a gastronomic getaway, then this is your ticket. You’ll be warmly welcomed by owners Nick and Mary, both former members of The Fat Duck Group, before settling in to one of their beautiful, characterful bedrooms.
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Make sure you mosey on down to the cosy bar for a pre-dinner drink and a nibble – the smoked almonds topped with buttery shallots are a must. Then indulge in a fine-dining feast before finishing your evening relaxing in front of the wood-burning fire.
Where is the hotel?
The Miller of Mansfield is located in Goring-on-Thames, a 15-minute train ride from Reading.
How to get there?
Goring is about an hour’s train ride from London Paddington station. The hotel itself is about a seven minute walk from Goring and Streatley station. Travelling by car is likely to take (at least) an hour and a half from London, traffic depending.
What’s in the area?
Expect stunning country trails, spectacular views and riverside walks straddled by lush green hills. It’s also privy to the late George Michael’s Georgian home. The shopping scene is perfect if you’re someone who’s looking to pick up a bargain in a local antique shop. But if walking, cycling, breathtaking scenery or just a bit of peace and quiet sounds like your perfect weekend away, then Goring has it all.
What’s in the room?
The room we were treated to would be better described as a country house suite. The double bed was large enough to dwarf any standard king size, while the rest of the room was decked out with a sofabed, coffee table, chairs and a chaise longue to match.
The spacious bathroom provided all the amenities you could need, along with an impressive roll top bath. Not to mention the homemade cookies awaiting us on the dressing table – which were a homely finishing touch.
What about dinner?
You can choose between chef Nick’s 9-course signature menu and the à la carte menu – we opted for the latter. Before our starters, Mary presented us with an array of appetisers including homemade sourdough, gougères filled with pea purée, bacon brioche and a whipped bacon butter to serve. The light-as-air gougères were my favourite while Lottie plunged headfirst into the buttery brioche…Safe to say our expectations had been set.
I chose the mushroom cheesecake for starters, adorned with candied walnuts, crispy onions and various flavourful dots of joy. The cheesecake itself was light, almost whipped, and sitting on top of a crumbly, crunchy hazelnut base. Divine. Lottie’s caviar, I’m told, was equally good. The portions are on the delicate side but rich enough, so that you feel satisfied.
For main course I opted for the cod, served with crab toast, caramelised onions, crab sauce and, again, many blissful dots of various purées. The cod fell away in soft, pearly flakes, the crab toast brought a fabulous crunch to the dish and the sauce…if you’d just given me that and a spoon I would’ve been happy. Lottie’s duck came with potato dauphinoise, kale and a sweet and sticky orange gravy.
For dessert I chose, of course, the chocolate mousse. Well, it was more of a chocolate dome layered with salted caramel, solid chocolate, a crunchy biscuit base and covered in a mirror glaze. All washed down with a quenelle of coffee ice cream and a sprinkling of sweetened balsamic vinegar. Yes, it was rich and yes, it was utterly fabulous.
Lottie’s mille-feuille was layered with rhubarb jelly, topped with matcha green tea mousse and paired with a ginger ice cream. It was a slightly more refreshing dessert than mine, crunchy, creamy and oh-so good.
How was breakfast?
The breakfast menu provided an ample array of classic dishes, from which I chose smoked salmon and scrambled eggs. I was rather surprised (but pleasantly so) when a plate of gooey, yellow eggs arrived alongside a whole smoked salmon fillet – a brunch-worthy treat fit for a royal! Lottie chose American-style pancakes with lemon and sugar (maple syrup or golden syrup also available), which were light and fluffy.
You could also opt for something off their cold menu which was presented on a large table, buffet-style. We tucked into the most gorgeous vanilla-flecked yogurt with muesli, as well as a slice or two of toast with a jam and marmalade to serve. Fruit and cereal were also available, along with tea and plenty of good filter coffee.
What’s the damage?
Room prices start at The Miller of Mansfield from £119 per night on weekdays and £129 per night on weekends. Plus, they offer plenty of packages including foodie escapes, midweek leisure breaks and more.
For more information on the hotel, please visit: millerofmansfield.com