How Korean food became hot stuff

Once you notice them, you’ll be seeing them everywhere. From supermarket shelves to corner shops and even petrol stations, the brightly coloured noodle packets, featuring a cartoon chicken breathing flames, are hard to miss. If you haven’t come across this Korean instant ramen in real life, you’ve probably seen it online – in noodle challenges on YouTube, daring recipe attempts on social media or in the headlines when the noodles were briefly banned in Denmark for being ‘too spicy’ (the decision was reversed last August).

Buldak ramen, also known as ‘fire noodles’, produced by Korean food company Samyang Foods, have slowly taken over the world. The noodles come in 11 flavours and different spice levels, ranging from curry to carbonara. One of the most popular is the original hot chicken flavour, which has gone viral on social media, leading to new flavours selling out and making millions in revenue.

But how did this instant ramen become such a global hit? In February 2014, British YouTubers Josh Carrott and Ollie Kendall, known as Korean Englishman, posted a video that would unexpectedly change the fortunes of an instant noodle company halfway across the world. Filming on the streets of London, the duo invited friends and family to take on a challenge: eating a cup of fiercely hot Korean noodles to see who could handle the heat.

The reactions were priceless – milk was gulped, eyes bulged and clothes came off. The video amassed 11 million views and sparked a global trend, inspiring countless copycat challenges. It quickly became one of the defining internet challenges of its time.

For Samyang Foods, this was more than just a viral moment, though – it was a lifeline. Founded in 1961 by former insurance exec Chun Joong-yoon, the family-run brand pioneered South Korea’s instant noodle industry during a time of post-war food shortages. Chun’s idea came after seeing crowds line up for leftover stews from US army bases. He believed instant noodles could solve hunger, marketing them as a cheap, filling meal. But the company faced its share of setbacks. In 1989, it was caught in a scandal involving allegations of using inedible beef fat, damaging its reputation.

In 2020, the company was hit again when then-chairman Jeon In Jang and his wife, Kim Jung-soo, were sentenced to prison for embezzling company funds. Jang’s career ended in disgrace, but Jung-soo received a pardon and returned as CEO the following year, despite a backlash. Kim and her 29-year-old son, Jeffrey Chun, are now leading Samyang Foods into a new era.

It’s Korean tradition to pass leadership to the first-born son, so Jeffrey is being prepared to take the helm. The unexpected international success of Buldak has driven Samyang’s growth far beyond its domestic market and the appetite for noodles doesn’t seem to be slowing down, with revenue surging from KRW93.1 billion (£51.5 million) in 2016 to KRW893 billion (£448.7 million) in 2023. Today, South Koreans consume more than 4 billion servings of instant noodles each year (compared to the UK’s 410 million), according to the World Instant Noodles Association.

Buldak’s global success has been fuelled by the Korean Wave, known as Hallyu, which has seen the globalisation of South Korea’s cultural economy through K-pop, K-dramas and K-movies. Jimin, from popular South Korean boyband BTS, is a known fan of Buldak; the Oscar-winning film Parasite featured a memorable ram-don scene combining two instant noodles with premium hanwoo beef; and one of the characters from Netflix series The Brothers Sun is habitually seen eating Buldak noodles as a snack.

In a market saturated with more than 500 different ramen products, Buldak stands out – not just for its internet fame but for its intense heat, with the original flavour reaching a fiery 4,404 Scoville units (roughly the same spiciness as a jalapeño, but many claim it’s habanero level).

“I tried them when the challenge first came out 10 years ago. It’s so intense and in your face, but it’s weirdly addictive,” says Becky Lee Smith, a Korean influencer and cultural ambassador who runs tours of New Malden, London’s Korea Town. “It’s wild to see how much of Korea’s soft power has infiltrated over the years.”

Korean food has been on the rise in the UK, starting with family-run restaurants and street food. Dedicated supermarkets H-Mart, Seoul Plaza and Oseyo are thriving, while long queues for Bunsik’s Korean corndogs confirm its rising popularity. Modern restaurants such as Michelin-starred Sollip, Miga, Bokman and its new sister restaurant, Dongnae, are pushing Korean food in a new direction.

“Twenty five years ago, most people couldn’t tell you anything about Korea or its culture, let alone name any Korean food,” says Dan Suh, managing director of Seoul Plaza, which stocks more than 5,000 Korean products and has over 17 stores across the UK. “My parents were running Korean restaurants in London’s Soho back in the 1980s. You could say that’s when the demand for Korean food began, though it was small at first.”

According to Da-hae West, a Korean cookery teacher and author of Eat Korean, Buldak noodles are a gateway to a deeper exploration of Korean cuisine and culture that’s both accessible and affordable. Cooking Korean food at home doesn’t require too many ingredients and is relatively straightforward. “Consider the three jangs, the holy trinity in Korean food: gochujang (chilli paste), ganjang (soy sauce) and doenjang (bean paste). You need these three to make pretty much any Korean dish,” she explains. “They last forever in your fridge as they’re fermented bean products.”

For Seji Hong, author of Korean Made Easy and founder of Bombom, a supplier of Korean condiments, Buldak noodles are too spicy. “I prefer making my own version using plain noodles and adding gochujang, gochujaru chilli flakes, cheese, shredded rotisserie chicken and a fried egg,” she says. “But I can see why they’re so popular with the younger generation. They’re fun, new and exciting. Plus, eating spice is a good stress reliever.”

Buldak noodles have evolved from a niche Korean novelty to become their own genre of food, revitalising the company’s brand image in the process. Samyang has cleverly capitalised on social media trends, consistently rolling out new products and flavours. It has gamified the phenomenon of spicy food challenges, introduced hot sauce swap pop-ups and even hosted a three-hour spicy ferry ride to celebrate the noodles’ return in Denmark after their shortlived ban. By relying on word of mouth, audience participation and collaborations with influencers, Samyang has cracked the code on getting noodle-lovers engaged and excited to come back for more.

“This is only the beginning,” Becky Lee Smith says. “I don’t think we’ve reached peak Korean craze yet.”

Your Korean shopping basket

What to look for in Korean supermarkets and online

Bibigo dumplings
These frozen dumplings come in a variety of flavours, from beef bulgogi to kimchi. Available from Korea Foods

Bombom gochujang
A versatile chilli sauce that’s spicy, funky, salty and all kinds of savoury. Available from Bombom Market

Bombom ssamjang soybean paste 
This thick savoury paste is perfect for Korean barbecue, offering a blend of umami, spice and sweetness. Available from Bombom Market

Nongshim gochugaru
Korean red pepper chilli flakes taste smoky, sweet and fruity, while giving dishes a hot kick. Available from WaNaHong

Ottogi sesame oil
Korean sesame oil is more intense than regular sesame oil, ideal for marinades and stir fries. Available from H-Mart

Ottogi perilla oil
This versatile oil has a nutty flavour with hints of liquorice. Available from H-Mart

Beksul BBQ sauce
A sweet, savoury and smoky sauce is the secret to a good marinade, glaze or dipping sauce. Available from Korea Foods

Kimchi
There are hundreds of varieties, but kimchi is typically made by fermenting cabbage in salt, garlic, ginger and chilli for a side that’s spicy, sour and tangy. Widely available – or try making your own

Blueville whole yellow pickled radish
This tangy pickle is part of banchan (small side dishes) and an ingredient in gimbap (seaweed rice rolls), soups and stews. Available from Korea Foods

Delve into the special flavours and ingredients that make Korea’s cooking so good with these Korean recipes.