Where to eat in Amsterdam

The Netherlands’ capital exudes an unexpected calm. It could be the stillness of the canals and their watery reflections that bounce off the handblown glass windows of traditional tall, slim buildings. Or it could be the fact that traffic in the centre is virtually non-existent with everyone walking the narrow streets, hopping on and off the electric trams or cycling the celebrated bike paths. Either way, it isn’t the widely reported seething mass of stag weekenders. In reality this is a visionary city, rich in artistic culture and accessible history; full of blue-sky thinkers who’ve created independent boutiques, design-leading architecture and a forward-looking restaurant scene.

Relaxed breakfasts and brunch

Decadently creamy coffee and lazy long brunches are how the Dutch start the day and there are cafés aplenty delivering the best of both. De Koffieschenkerij is wonderfully atmospheric with a sheltered terrace that serves a divine banana bread and the perfect chai latte. It prides itself on being the city’s favourite destination for brunch, served all day, so there’s no rush.

Traditional Dutch pancakes or ‘pannenkoeken’ are a way of life in Amsterdam and The Pancake Bakery serves them in a range of exciting savoury or sweet flavours. For breakfast on the go, Lourens has a cult social media following for its ‘crookie’, a croissant-cookie melange (you just have to try it).

Top lunch spots

To get a feel for the city’s culinary creativity, you need to experience lunch at BAK. Housed on the third floor of a former warehouse overlooking the old timber port, BAK is a revelation. Set tasting menus (five, seven or nine courses) might include a turnip and white bean miso amuse-bouche, and hamachi (a type of mackerel) and horseradish bell pepper tamari starters. Perhaps for mains, try dashi barley morels with peas and blanched artichoke, or skate wing with fermented celeriac juice, bottarga and elderflower capers; it’s all wonderful stuff.

For a waterborne dining experience, Ode ann de Amstel has a floating terrace with stunning views and a cosmopolitan menu with everything from beach crab red curry soup to chicken karage with kimchi. If just being canalside is enough for you, Jansz serves delights such as asparagus with anchovies and smoked almonds, and a satisfying bavette steak and chimichurri sandwich.

Amsterdam is a master of street food too, and a grazing meal at De Hallen is a must-do lunch stop. Set in the city’s old tram depot, this high-ceilinged space houses one of the most impressive food halls in Europe, offering everything from bitterballen (a sort of meaty Dutch croqueta) to expertly crafted sushi.

Divine dinners

As you would expect in a water-based city, seafood is exceptional. One of the city highlights is Pesca a buzzy eatery offering a ‘market stall’ approach rather than a set menu. Choose your catch of the day, then head to the nearby wine stall to pick its perfect pairing.

In Park Frankendael, De Kas claims to be one of the farm-to-table restaurants (it opened in 2000), with the tagline ‘harvested in the morning, on your plate in the afternoon’, growing all its veg and herbs. Mindbogglingly delicious veg-forward menus are enjoyed in glasshouses akin to the ones used to grow much of the produce.

The Plantage, the city’s former Jewish quarter, is another green spot for a spring evening, where Restaurant de Plantage has a Mediterranean brasserie vibe – think baked aubergine with tahini, harissa and walnut, followed by leg of lamb, slow cooked in the charcoal oven.

Where to drink

Famed for two drinks – beer and jenever (a juniper-flavoured precursor to gin), Amsterdam has some top tasting experiences for both. The brewery for craft beer, Brouerij’t IJ, is overlooked by Amsterdam’s oldest windmill and has several taprooms across the city. Try their 4% Calypso, it’s a fruitily refreshing blonde beer.

At the peaceful Nieuwe Diep Distillery you can soak up the lake views while sipping different ages of jenever and perhaps buying a bottle to take home (it won’t taste the same, though…). For cocktails, head to the decadently dark and moody Art Deco Pulitzer Bar for a Déjà Vu, a fancy riff on an old fashioned with Woodford rye, pecan and orange jelly.

What to see

Invest in an I Amsterdam City Card for reductions at key sites and a fabulous app giving locals’ tips. Get your bearings with a canal cruise – Mokumboot offers fairy-lit evening trips too. This is a city chock full of museums – for an insightful introduction start with the Dutch masters at the Rijksmuseum, followed by a moving tour of the Anne Frank House, then cross the water to Amsterdam Noord and explore the street art exhibitions at STRAAT.

Room in your case for edible souvenirs? Stock up on gouda at De Kaaskamer and packets of freshly made stroopwafels at Albert Cuyp Market.

Where to stay

The Hoxton, Lloyd Amsterdam in the Eastern Dock area was originally the Royal Holland Lloyd Shipping Company’s ticket office. Now impressively transformed with large windows, modern art and views across the waterfront. Doubles from £225 room only.

How to get there

Melanie flew with EasyJet, whose flights start from £130. The Sprinter train takes 20 minutes from Schiphol Airport to Centraal Station, departing every 10 minutes, costing from £4.35.

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