Where to eat on the Isle of Skye
There are few foodier destinations in Scotland than the Hebridean Isle of Skye. Karen Barnes eats her way around the island, taking in the majestic views – and the glorious whisky.

Welcome to a land of folklore, where legend has it giants once trod and fought. Of scenery it’s impossible not to be beguiled by. Of innumerable good things to eat and drink: Skye has a thriving food scene, with cool on-trend cafés, seafood shacks, high-end restaurants and a vibrant coffee culture.
The larder is rich, with spectacular beef, venison, lamb and seafood on the menu. And the whisky… ah, the whisky. The islanders’ love for it runs deep, harking back to traditions of sitting round the table sharing a glass or three, the peat fire smouldering in the hearth while stories old and tall are told. You’re never far from the whiff of peat smoke or a smoky dram on Skye – it’s part of the fabric of the place.
Don’t be surprised to see four seasons in a day, views changing through an artist’s palette of stormy greys, pin-sharp blues, earthy browns and smudged purples, made vibrant by Turneresque shafts of sunlight when you least expect the clouds to part.
A tale of two halves
Divide your stay in two: spend a couple of nights in the south, the rest further north. In the south, the jagged Cuillin mountains frame the views, with starkly beautiful Loch Coruisk and the scenery around the village of Elgol unmissable. Plan a tour of Torabhaig Distillery (see below), and don’t miss out on the café – the homemade cakes are worth a detour (we loved the carrot cake). If you can’t stretch to a stay at the magnificent Kinloch Lodge (see Where to Stay, below), book in for Sunday lunch: I lost count of the veg on the plate, overshadowed as they were by perfectly pink roast beef and huge yorkies puffed up like a bird attracting a mate. Best roast dinner I’ve had for years. Drop into the Isle of Skye Smokehouse for a tour and tasting: smoked trout and salmon, both delicacies to pack into your bags for home.

Portree is Skye’s capital – a good central stop-off point en route to the north, with dolly mixture-coloured houses lining the waterfront. The backstreets might look unpromising, but seek out Birch. This gem of a café and roastery has a cool Scandi aesthetic, with top-notch coffee – and you can buy beans to take home.

Gems of the north
If you put nothing else on your list of scenic places to visit, make it The Fairy Pools – a magical series of connected waterfalls. Other beauty spots are Neist Point, Eilean Donan Castle, Coral Beach and basically any coastal or mountain road.

For great eating, The Oyster ShedThe Oyster Shed, near Carbost, has spanking-fresh seafood. No frills here: food is served in disposable containers at rustic tables with a mountain view. Choose from the likes of oysters, lobster soup and 10 shell-on langoustines in garlicky butter with a wedge of lemon.
Nearby Café Cùil is a vibey haven (cùil means ‘nest’ or ‘nook’ in Gaelic) founded by chef Clare Coghill, who swapped her café in East London’s Dalston for the sparkling air of her Skye homeland. Bring your appetite: the brisket rarebit, brunch dish of dreams, is loaded with Lochalsh beef and Orkney cheddar; kimchi toasties and Highland shakshuka, made with haggis, are other specialities.

At the other end of the dining spectrum, with a decades-strong reputation, is The Three Chimneys, in a remote spot on spectacular Loch Dunvegan. Chef Paul Green took over the kitchen from Scott Davies last year, returning to the restaurant where he worked many years earlier when it had a Michelin star. Standout dishes were oysters (one in the lightest batter; one dressed with a lemony plum granita), a delicate mushroom tart frothed with herbs and a pear pudding almost too beautiful to eat.
The Dunvegan, on the water’s edge, describes itself as a ‘fire restaurant’. Chef Tim Hunter-Davies cooks over an open grill, swapping wood and herbs in and out to great effect. Must-tries: double-dived scallops (see VIP Producer, below), pork chops as big as your hand and – a wow dish for me – smoked mussels in an intensely savoury sauce spiked with whisky – the three-course dinner is pretty reasonable. If you’re looking for lighter bites, there’s a deli-café, too.

Other big draws for food are Loch Bay, Edinbane Lodge and The Stein Inn. All three have rooms. When you’re in Stein, nip up the road to artisan tannery Skye Skyns for luxurious sheepskins and leather goods, whistle wetted by a Skye Coffee Roasters flat white as you browse.
VIP producer
David Oakes’ Sconser Scallops from Loch Sligachan are ‘double-dived’, meaning they’re first dived for at around three years old and moved to plankton-rich shallower waters – a mission the scallops otherwise spend their lives trying to achieve. Shifting them means they don’t develop muscles getting there, so they’re especially tender and sweet. Years later, they’re dived for again, this time for eating. David and his son Ben’s patience means the environment benefits as the scallops spawn more and jet around freely, ruffling the loch bed, throwing up food for smaller fish, which feed bigger fish and, ultimately, birds. Loch life is enriched – and the scallops are one of the great food experiences of Skye.

A wee dram
Leaving Skye without whisky-tasting is like visiting Cornwall without having a cream tea. There are two distilleries: newbie Torabhaig in the south; and, in the north, Talisker. Both have slick visitor centres and run tours that demystify the art of whisky-making. Tastings reveal how adding water, drop by tiny drop, opens out the taste and ‘nose’ of the single malt. And don’t miss… The Three Chimneys at Talisker, a nifty way to try the restaurant’s brilliance for less: dishes include Carbost skink (haddock soup laced with dashi), Loch Duart salmon rillettes and, for something sweet, cranachan cheesecake.

Where to stay
Stand-out hotel
Kinloch Lodge is worth saving up for. Founded by chef and food writer Lady Claire Macdonald and her husband Godfrey, the eighth Lord Macdonald. Overlooking Loch na Dal, it’s well placed for exploring southern Skye and visiting Torabhaig Distillery. You can do a foraging walk with the hotel’s own ghillie, too. Dinners are fine dining in style, and the place is in the safe hands of the Macdonalds’ daughter, Isabella. Doubles B&B from £540 a night.
Self-catering
Tigh an Tobair is a four-bed cottage (sleeping eight) that sparks joy – and it’s ideal for exploring the north of Skye. Views are panoramic over Loch Dunvegan, the interior design is luxe, beds are as comfy as a five-star hotel… Plus there’s a hot tub overlooking that view. Nearby Lochview is a two-bed (sleeping four) similarly luxe cottage with hot tub and sauna. At both you can book a whisky tasting with expert Mark Collie and – major plus – The Three Chimneys restaurant is a short walk. Tigh an Tobair costs from £1,384 for a long weekend; Lochview from £1,218.
Mid-range
The Dunvegan has rooms from £120 per night (two-night min stay). The Three Chimneys has rooms too, full price from £300 per night.
Planning your trip
There’s a toll-free bridge over the Kyle of Lochalsh to Skye. The island is mountainous and 50 miles long, so driving takes longer than you think, especially when summer crowds descend. Midges turn up in early summer, too. Go out of season, when the only crowds you’ll meet are the sheep.
Discover more weekend escape inspiration, where the focus is firmly on the food…
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