Anchovy spaghetti with chilli, garlic and pangrattato
- September 2023
- Serves 4
- Hands-on time 50 min. Simmering time 1 hour, plus 30 min cooling
Chef Jun Tanaka takes French soupe de poisson and reimagines it as a pasta sauce – with outrageously good results. The team went mad for this in the test kitchen, and we need you to try it!
The intense reduced soup is used as a base for a fresher, intensely umamish anchovy dressing, which coats the spaghetti and samphire. It’s a dish that simply sings of coastal flavour.
Looking for the classic fish soup recipe? Click here for our soup de poisson
- 16g (2.6g saturated)
- 66g (3.7g sugars)
- 300g spaghetti
- 90g samphire
- Finely grated zest 1 unwaxed lemon
For the sauce base
- Olive oil to fry
- 500g fish trimmings (see Know How), such as red mullet, gurnard, bream and/or sea bass
- 75ml dry white wine
- 1 carrot, finely sliced
- 1 shallot, finely sliced
- ¼ fennel, finely sliced
- 1 tbsp tomato purée
- 100g tomatoes, chopped
- Pinch saffron
- 800ml good quality fish stock
- 2 garlic cloves
For the anchovy ‘vinaigrette’
- 50ml olive oil
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 red chilli, finely chopped
- 1 tsp tomato purée
- Dash sherry vinegar
- 90g anchovy fillets in oil (Jun uses Cantabrian anchovies), chopped
For the pangrattato
- 4 slices stale bread
- Olive oil to fry
- 4 garlic cloves, bashed in their skins
- Pinch chilli flakes
- Begin by making the sauce base. Put a large frying pan over a medium heat and add a dash of oil. Lightly season the fish trimmings with salt, then add to the pan, cooking until caramelised and golden brown all over (work in batches if you need to). Lift the fish out and set aside on a plate, then deglaze the pan with the wine, scraping up any bits stuck to the bottom. Reserve the wine.
- Add another drizzle of oil to a large saucepan over a medium heat, then add the carrots. Cook, stirring, for around 8 minutes or until the carrots begin to caramelise, then add the shallot and fennel. Cook for 10 minutes until everything is golden, then add the tomato purée and cook for a further 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and saffron, cook for another 5 minutes, then add the fried fish trimmings, reserved wine and fish stock. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 40 minutes.
- After this time the liquid should have reduced into a rich, flavourful soup. Remove from the heat, leave to naturally cool for 30 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve, giving the solids a squeeze to ensure every last drop is extracted. Reserve in the fridge until needed.
- To make the pangrattato, whizz the bread in a food processor until it turns into coarse crumbs. Add a generous drizzle of olive oil to a wide frying pan, then add the garlic and breadcrumbs and fry, stirring regularly, until the crumbs are golden. Season with salt and chilli flakes, then drain on kitchen paper.
- When you’re ready to serve, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil for the pasta and measure out 200ml of the fish soup base (any leftovers can be eaten as a soup). While you wait for the water to boil, make the ‘vinaigrette’. Pour the olive oil into a saucepan over a medium heat, then add the shallots. Cook for 5 minutes until softened but not coloured, then add the garlic and chilli and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the tomato purée, cook for 1 minute, then pour in a dash of sherry vinegar and the fish soup. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the anchovies and simmer for 2 minutes. Keep warm over a very low heat until the pasta is ready.
- Add the spaghetti to the boiling water and cook according to the pack instructions, minus 2 minutes. Drain, then add the pasta to the anchovy sauce and simmer for 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning (although it should be salty enough), add the samphire and divide among bowls. Finish with lemon zest and the pangrattato.
Most of the work for this dish is in making the soup base, which can be done entirely in advance and kept in the fridge for up to 3 days. The pangrattato can also be made in advance and kept in an airtight container for up to 24 hours.
The key to a great fish soup is in the trimmings you use – any fishmonger should be able to sell you trim, heads and/or bones for a very affordable price. If you don’t have access to a fishmonger, you could always save up enough of your own trim in the freezer, or buy whole fish from the supermarket, remove the fillets for another dish and use the heads and bones here.
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